honeywell visionpro

[gates123]

I have a visionpro for a couple of years now and have it setup so it controls the heat stages but I have yet to see it go into high heat since I had it. The only way it will go is if I turn up the heat. I have heard it run over half an hour and nothing. Is it better to let the furnace decide when to swith over instead. I have the older style 58MVP. I have the honeywell TH8321U1006. I live in northern canada and it's cold out here. I also have two carrier thermostats I could use. The ac and the hp. I can use the hp to control the heat stages but it will only go into the second stage after 15 min. Would that be my best option. Any help would be apreciated.

[skippedover]

Your concern should only be whether the furnace is maintaining temperature. If your set-point is 70 and it's always 70 in the house, you should not be concerned about which stage is keeping it there. If your lowest, normal outdoor temperature in winter is -10F and at that temperature you're still maintaining set-point (70F in the example) on first stage, then the furnace is oversized by a substantial amount. However, it's not uncommon in some locals to have the unit run on 1st stage for years because of warmer weather patterns. Not that it doesn't go to 2nd stage but when it does, you're sound asleep in the middle of the night. You've verified the wiring is correct by pushing up the set-point. So the t-stat and wiring seem fine. Just know that different thermostats handle staging in different ways. The less sophisticated units run 1st stage for a set time, then bump up to 2nd stage regardless of room temp or set-point. The more sophisticated stats operate on just room temperature trends and respond accordingly. The Visioinpro is capable of keeping the furnace on 1st stage all day and night if necessary and then cycling the 2nd stage intermittently as necessary to hold the set-point. How long the system runs on each stage is simply a matter of outdoor temperature and the size of the furnace. Did the installing contractor do a Manual "J" load calc? That's the only way to know if the furnace is really properly sized or not.

[beenthere]

If it is maintaining temp without going to high heat. Then you don't need it to go to high heat. And your furnace may be oversized.

[gates123]

My furnace is the right size. I have an older home but with new windows and it is 1006 square feet and my furnace is 60000 btu. Now I'm not really worried about comfort but I'm concerned about cost savings. Natural gas up here went through the roof and want to save money. Is running my furnace on high heat more often going to save money. It gets below -20f often out here and it does not seem normal not to go into high heat. I would like to know if someone else with this stat has seen their furnace run over 30 min. on the first stage only. I don't know what a manual j load is but I did get the best and bigest company around to do it.

[ckr74]

I've seen mine at times run the whole day in first stage and never use 2nd stage. Those visionpro's have a mind of there own. If your holding temp, don't worry about it, if it's not you should have it checked.

[beenthere]

Are you saying you have a 60,000 BTU 2 stage furnace. And at -20°F(-20C = -4F), it runs less then an hour in first stage, and still maintains the thermostat set temp.

If so, then your furnace is oversized.

The TH8321 goes to second stage if the temp drops in the house.

A 2 stage 60,000 BTU 90% efficient furnace, can have a heat output of 35,100 BTU's in first stage.
Your house may only have a heat loss of 30,000 BTUs, or less.

In Canada, I believe its also F280 for doing a heat loss calc.

45 minutes of first stage operation = 30 minutes of first stage operation.
In other words, the same amount of gas would have been used, for the same amount of heat. Just the amount of time it took to give you the heat changes.


Long run times are typical for 2 stage furnaces. And many run for 45 minutes and more as it gets close to design temp.

The IAQ thermostat. An upgrade from the TH8321, typically, runs first stage for 54 minutes before going to second stage when outdoor temps are near, or at design.

You could be losing 3 to 4% combustion efficiency in first stage. Depends how well your contractor set up your furnace.

[mayguy]

You are not gong to use more gas, just less gas is used (lower flame) spread out in a longer time frame vs higher gas (full BTU) in short time = less comfort.

What was your design temp that was for your home and outdoors?

As other said, as long it can keep temp, enjoy the comfort. I have two stage, and I don't start seeing the 2nd stage when it's -10 outside, and when it's -20 the 2nd stage stays on longer. Also when I recover from set back 2nd stage is used.

[Airmechanical]

there are parameters that can be changed on your stat to bring on second stage earlier

but as stated, as long as your house is comfortable, why mess with it?



.

[gates123]

What parameters can be changed to make it go into high heat sooner. The only thing that I can see is heat temperature control # 0680. I can choose from 1 to 3. I have it set at 2, standard tempurature control. What else. As far as I know they don't make a 58mvp smaller than 60000 btu. And to be clear on my stat. I have the one with humidity control. I like to see what the humidity level is at. And yes I get temps of -30c to -35c on a regular basis. It does run a little longer than half an hour and no second stage. Turn up the stat and changes just fine.

[beenthere]

You can lower your CPH, and set 0680 to 3 for more aggressive heating.
It might go to second stage once in a while then.

Your system is just oversized. Thats why it doesn't go to second stage.

If it was a problem with the stat, then your house would lose temp from not going to second stage.

A single stage 40,000 BTU 90% probably would have been a better choice fo your house.

You can have your furnace set to time to second stage if you want.

[beenthere]

You can lower your CPH, and set 0680 to 3 for more aggressive heating.
It might go to second stage once in a while then.

Your system is just oversized. Thats why it doesn't go to second stage.

If it was a problem with the stat, then your house would lose temp from not going to second stage.

A single stage 40,000 BTU 90% probably would have been a better choice fo your house.

You can have your furnace set to time to second stage if you want.

[gates123]

Well I lower my CPH to 3 but I won't know for a while if it works. What do you mean by (You can have your furnace set to time to second stage if you want.) Do you mean to have the furnace decide when to go in high heat. I had it that way before but it would go in high heat even if it was 0c outside. That can't be good. I'm not an expert but I don't know how 40000 but can heat my hole house. My gas fireplace is over 35000. I have it set alot lower though. Thanks for the help guys. Hope someone might have a different idea to try. I can't go and complain to the company who installed it because I have had it for 6 years now. Thank you.

[beenthere]

Your gas fireplace is only 80% efficient at best. So if it were 35,000 input, it would only be 28,000 output. If it uses indoor air for combustion, it increases teh amount of heat your house needs, while you use it.

A 40,000 BTU input 90% would be 36,000 BTUs output, or 23% more heat.

Yes, a timer will stge it to second stage weather or not its needed.

Again, if the stat, doesn't call for second stage when its -35C outside, and its maintaining set temp, the furnace is oversized.
A 60,000 BTU input 2 stage furnace, is only 39,000 BTUs input in first stage.

[Alden_Sloe]

You can lower your CPH, and set 0680 to 3 for more aggressive heating. It might go to second stage once in a while then.

Thanks again for more great info on how to "second guess" the artificial intelligence of my IAQ tstat ;)

I'm hoping to do the opposite, eliminate 2nd stage as much as possible both with the furnace and with the HP. I'm assuming I should set 680 back to 1 (less agressive) but I'm missing something with CPH. It seems like lower CPH would equate to longer lower heating cycles. Last night the Adaptive Recovery mode kicked on the 2nd stage of the HP 45 minutes before the Wake time (woke me up :mad: ). There's a 4 degree night time setback (I'd really rather have 5-7 but with the fan set to ON 4 is OK). It took about 15 minutes to bring the temp up 2 degrees and then it switched back to stage 1. I was warned that it might take the tstat a week or so to "learn" how the house reacts but if I can't improve this behavior I'm going to have to nix the Adaptive Recovery mode.

In another thread it was pointed out that the one reason the output temperature of the newer furnaces is lower is because they're using thinner heat exchangers. Maybe they're using thinner heat exchangers because lower output temp is better but either way it seems the longevity of the heat exchanger is going to be better the less you jump to stage 2. The other reason I like stage one operation is it's quieter and a lot more comfortable. Especially at night is when I notice stage 2 coming on. Not only is it a lot louder (already spoiled by the new system :o ) but the barn burner setting results in our bedroom heating up way faster than the central living space where the tstat is located. I programmed the fan to be ON during the sleep phase which is virtually silent and maintains a comfortable temperature throughout the house.


Your system is just oversized. Thats why it doesn't go to second stage.
It seems like all the companies here in Seattle "oversize" the furnace simply by virtue of using 10F as a design temp. I guess they have to make sure that worst case the system is going to keep up but of the 40 odd years I've lived in the Puget Sound area I could probably count the number of nights it was below 10 degrees on my fingers and toes. Single digit temperatures are virtually unheard of and getting less and less common. The other factor with a hybrid HP system though is getting enough CFM for the AC. The smallest furnace that will meet the max AC requirements is going to boarder on being oversized for any reasonably insulated house. OK by me though, I like my stage 1 heat :)

What is it that the installer can optimize for stage 1, just the airflow to the ducts or do most furnaces also require adjustment to the combustion draft and fuel regulation? We're virtually at sea level so I wouldn't expect much adjustment to be necessary.

[beenthere]

They should have set up combustion and temp rise when they commissioned it the day they installed/started it.

Takes a little while to get it right.

If its loud in second stage heat, it will probably be louder in cooling mode, if you needed a larger size furnace to gt enough air flow for A.C.

What size A/C do you have?

[Alden_Sloe]

They should have set up combustion and temp rise when they commissioned it the day they installed/started it.

Yeah, well that was a bit of a disaster. The way it's set up the installing crew does the initial startup of the furnace and the the senior tech comes out and does the charging and turn over of the heat pump.


Takes a little while to get it right.
Yes, and given several other issues that had to be addressed it took even longer and I think some things that should have been given more attention weren't.


If its loud in second stage heat, it will probably be louder in cooling mode, if you needed a larger size furnace to gt enough air flow for A.C.
Yes, that's something that the better companies that bid the job all alerted me to. I guess we'll find out about the AC next summer... which may be a couple of years from now the way the weather is here in Seattle ;)

When I complain about 2nd stage being loud I must qualify that it's still WAY quieter than the old oil furnace which sounded like a truck was running in the basement. I'm spoiled already by how silent the 1st stage heating is. Given the option between changing ducting after living with the noise or living with a HP that was undersize but quiet it seemed to make a lot more sense to come back and revisit the ducting issue; especially since we plan on doing fairly extensive remodel work 2-3 years out. This is an old (cira 1961) custom home that's been in the family for 2 generations. Many of the features are unique even today. For example, my wife's family is very musical. We have 16' ceils with a grand piano and organ loft in the main living area. For acoustics there's 1/2" cork on the gabled ceiling. There's also a wood cookstove (think 2 tons of iron), a 4x8x16 masonary chimney, minimum 3' overhangs and a huge south facing glass wall. I don't think anybody accurately accounted for any of this in the load calculations.


What size A/C do you have?
The HP is a 2 stage York 4 ton unit. I think Stage 1 is enough for at least 90% of our needs here in Seattle. It's the design for the "extremes" that creates the challenges.

[beenthere]

An Affinity YZE04811

Do they have the hot heat pump feature enabled on it.(can make it a little quiter in second stage, for a limited time, in each heat call for second stage)

At what temp is the forced second stage set to.(35 is the lowest outdoor temp it can be set to. It automatically goes to second stage at the switch temp, weather the sat is calling for second stage or not)

[Alden_Sloe]

An Affinity YZE04811
I've just been thinking of it as a 4 ton Affinity 8T. According to the Customer Booklet it has a model designation YZH04811.


Do they have the hot heat pump feature enabled on it.(can make it a little quiter in second stage,
Good question. The salesman made the Hot Heat feature seem like a big deal but what I'm finding out so far is most of the install settings were left as generic as possible. I just started looking through the installation manual for the HP last night. I'm still trying to figure out the IAQ tstat. I know system behavior will be dependent on everything (tstat, HP and furnace). I'm starting to wrap my head around all the setting on the Honeywell tstat and the furnace is relatively straight forward but the HP boggles my mind :confused:


At what temp is the forced second stage set to.
All the technician told me was he'd set the BP to 30F. He said the rep, who has one at his house sets his at 20F but that he's not yet convinced that's wise. York is a relatively new player in the NW market. Far and away the most common equipment is Trane/American Std and that's what my contractor has the most experience with. In my first pass through the manual I didn't see anything for forced 2nd stage setting. But it was late and without knowing what a lot of the settings meant I was starting to feel like the whole thing was in a foreign language. I'll have to take some time to go over the manual and then go out and write down all the settings at the HP.

Night time lows have been in the mid to upper 40's. Same thing this AM, HP kicked on 40-45 minutes prior to scheduled Wake period and ran on 2nd stage for about 20 minutes before dropping back to 1st stage so it seems the call for stage 2 is from the IAQ. 'The other thing is I've never heard it kick on stage two during the nigh and I'm pretty it would wake me up if it did. The house drops about 1 degree per hour so I expect the HP starts working around 2am. But with the fan set for continuous during sleep and stage 1 being so quite I really don't know when it's on.

The noise isn't really all that objectionable. It's well withing reason if we're up and about. The problem with it kicking in 40 minutes before I need to get up is one, there's a return air duct right outside our bedroom door which is the biggest noise maker and two the fact that our room, probably because of the attached 1/2 bath with it's dedicated register heats up way faster than the main living space where the tstat is. I think it's actually the heat that wakes me up and then I hear the noise from the return air duct.

One thing I've noticed in the evenings is that the tstat NEVER seems to vary from it's set point. I'm really not sure how often the heat pump cycles. It's so quite (in stage 1) that I can't distinguish between it being on and the fan which is set for circ during occupied time (On during sleep and away). I'm trying hard not to change too many things during the tstat "learning" period which I'm told is about a week but it seems dialing down the "aggressive" factor from the default might be more to my liking. I have to wonder too if the tstat would perform better if it had an outdoor temperature sensor. As installed the HP is using only it's internal temperature sensor.

[beenthere]

I've never sold a YZH.
I talked a couple customers out of it, and into staying with the YZE. Just no pay back here going ot a YZH.

Second stage lock, and balance point are 2 different settings, and functions.

Although the Affinity defrost board is a dual fuel control also.
You want the IAQ to control it, not the defrost board.
The defrost board calls for both stages of heat when it switches over to the furnace.
So you lose some of the comfort you paid for.

Using the IAQ for dual fuel control.
You can set up a much better droop between HP and furnace use if you want.
Plus, you can use both stages of the furnace with the IAQ.

Did they install the bonnet sensor the Affinity should have when using its defrost board as the dual fuel control.

[Alden_Sloe]

I've never sold a YZH.
I talked a couple customers out of it, and into staying with the YZE. Just no pay back here going ot a YZH.

Yeah, I wouldn't have bought the YZH except for the aggressive manufacturers rebate from York and the efficiency rating qualified it for the maximum rebate from our local utility. The whole thing came in so close to the the other systems under consideration it was a no brainer.



Although the Affinity defrost board is a dual fuel control also.
You want the IAQ to control it, not the defrost board.

Thanks for the heads up. I'm going to ask the contractor for the external sensor. I'm sure they'll sell me one at cost or give it to me. They did give me an indoor sensor because I said I'd like to experiment with different locations in the house as far as optimizing the system. Obviously right now I still have a lot of homework to do in learning how to operate the equipment and what questions to ask. Before changing anything I'll run it by the contractor. It seems that using the defrost board has some built in safety features and you need to be a little more savvy to exploit all the features that are possible with the IAQ. Right now I'm still figuring out what questions to ask.

I'll look at the second stage lock and as I'm reading now Low Temperature Cutout (LTCO) and BP are different things and I didn't really understand BP. It would be silly to always call for both stages of heat when the furnace is on. I'm pretty sure there's no bonnet sensor installed. From the manual it looks like either way only W1 is energized below LTCO if tstat calls for 1st stage compressor and W2 kicks in only if 2nd stage of compressor is called. With the bonnet sensor HP control will allow simultaneous operation of HP and gas furnace as long as outdoor temperature is above LTCO and the bonnet sensor is less than 90 degrees. If BP and LTCO are set the same then it's a mute point. :eek: This is getting complicated fast :confused:

Calculations I'd done early on pointed to a COP of around 2.5 being the economic point where it was just as cheap to use gas out here. The systems I was looking at then dropped below that at a point above freezing. The York claims for the Affinity, if they're to be believed would mean I could go all the way down to 10 degrees which is as cold as it ever gets around here. I suspect though that temperatures +/- 5 degrees from freezing are going to be the hardest because the dew point and the temperature tend to be almost the same (freezing fog, oh boy :rolleyes:). When it drops below 25, which isn't very often, it usually means a cold dry air mass from Canada has moved down.

[beenthere]

You'll like the demand defrost board, it won't do needless defrost cycles.

I think you'll find your system needs balancing. And some duct alterations.
Noise from return, means undersized grille, or undersized duct.

[praha99]

If you want second stage to be a timed event, jumper w1 and w2.
Not sure if thats possible on whatever furnace you have..

[beenthere]

If you want second stage to be a timed event, jumper w1 and w2.
Not sure if thats possible on whatever furnace you have..
Thats not how you do timed second stage to a York 2 stage furnace.

[Alden_Sloe]

It's not the furnace, it's the HP. Temperatures haven't been below 40F so the furnace hasn't been called on yet. What I want to is for the IAQ to run the HP in stage 1 or at least make a good go of it in stage one before using stage 2 when using the adaptive recovery between night and day setback temperatures (4 degrees). It seems backwards, at least for a morning recovery. It runs full blast 40-45 minutes before wake time for about 15 minutes and then goes back to stage one.

If you're up then yes, you want the house hot now damn it. Since small rooms, like the bathroom and most bedroom are typically going to heat up faster this works out fine. I really like the individual scheduling of the fan for each schedule slot. We have it set for ON during sleep and it keeps the house at a very even temperature, improves the quality of the air in the bedroom and the HP (so far) only runs in stage 1 at night.

The IAQ has no outdoor temperature sensor and therefore no Balance Point set. The outdoor temperature is sensed by the York HP but doesn't seem to communicate that back to the IAQ. I tried manually setting the outdoor temperature sensor to 1 when I discovered that the default Auto Discover won't work with the EIM but no luck. Don't know if the York heat pump can communicate the temperature and it's just not wired or if that's just not possible. Hard to say for sure but the wording in the Honeywell manuals indicates Adaptive Intelligent Recovery is based only on the rate of change in temperature at the indoor sensor(s).

Daytime highs and night time lows have been very consistent. I'll leave the settings for a couple more days to see how well it learns. Thought about changing the Temp Control Heat setting (680) to Less Aggressive (1). The Installation Manual indicates that is for if the room is warmer than set temp which is the case in the bedroom when 2nd stage heating kicks in but it doesn't sound like this will change the way the tstat calls for stage 1/2 during recovery from nighttime set back. Maybe the Intelligent thing to do is to forget about using Adaptive Recovery.

[beachtech]

Thats not how you do timed second stage to a York 2 stage furnace.

you can time a trane like that :) 10mns is what youget if you jumper w1 to w2 :)

i thought that vision pro had minimum run times on heat? maybe not lol

[beenthere]

you can time a trane like that :) 10mns is what youget if you jumper w1 to w2 :)

i thought that vision pro had minimum run times on heat? maybe not lol
Thats a Trane, York is different.

[beenthere]

It's not the furnace, it's the HP. Temperatures haven't been below 40F so the furnace hasn't been called on yet. What I want to is for the IAQ to run the HP in stage 1 or at least make a good go of it in stage one before using stage 2 when using the adaptive recovery between night and day setback temperatures (4 degrees). It seems backwards, at least for a morning recovery. It runs full blast 40-45 minutes before wake time for about 15 minutes and then goes back to stage one.

If you're up then yes, you want the house hot now damn it. Since small rooms, like the bathroom and most bedroom are typically going to heat up faster this works out fine. I really like the individual scheduling of the fan for each schedule slot. We have it set for ON during sleep and it keeps the house at a very even temperature, improves the quality of the air in the bedroom and the HP (so far) only runs in stage 1 at night.

The IAQ has no outdoor temperature sensor and therefore no Balance Point set. The outdoor temperature is sensed by the York HP but doesn't seem to communicate that back to the IAQ. I tried manually setting the outdoor temperature sensor to 1 when I discovered that the default Auto Discover won't work with the EIM but no luck. Don't know if the York heat pump can communicate the temperature and it's just not wired or if that's just not possible. Hard to say for sure but the wording in the Honeywell manuals indicates Adaptive Intelligent Recovery is based only on the rate of change in temperature at the indoor sensor(s).

Daytime highs and night time lows have been very consistent. I'll leave the settings for a couple more days to see how well it learns. Thought about changing the Temp Control Heat setting (680) to Less Aggressive (1). The Installation Manual indicates that is for if the room is warmer than set temp which is the case in the bedroom when 2nd stage heating kicks in but it doesn't sound like this will change the way the tstat calls for stage 1/2 during recovery from nighttime set back. Maybe the Intelligent thing to do is to forget about using Adaptive Recovery.
The IAQ can't use the Affinities OD sensor.

Does the bedroom get warmer just when teh HP is in second stage, or does it do it in both stages.

Your uneven heat trouble, is more duct problem, then the Affinity going to second stage in recovery.

[Alden_Sloe]

Don't really notice the bedroom getting hotter when in stage 1. I'm sure ducting could be improved but just maintaining airflow and not trying to heat the whole house "instantly" works fine. Returns are undoubtedly the weakest point of the system. There are 3 for 2800 sqft (2nd floor loft bedrooms and 16' ceiling in central living area)and all down low on the first floor. One of the three is right outside our room. The master bedroom gets heat not only from the register in the bedroom but also from the 3/4 attached bathroom. On top of that it's the closest duct run to the furnace which is in the crawl space right below our bathroom. We are planning an extensive remodel in about three years and I'll have to find someone who can really evaluate our unique floor plan and make some solid improvements. In the mean time, when the HP or Furnace are kept on 1st stage and the circulation fan is on during sleep and away overall temperature stays remarkably consistent.

If the IAQ insists on calling for stage 2 heat 45 minutes before the alarm clock goes off then I'll just switch it off. Blast furnace mode when you're already in the bathroom and taking a shower is kind of nice :D.

[beenthere]

It may be starting up in first stage. And you don't notice it because your asleep.
But, because of the duct work. It can't bring the temp up in the room where it is fast enough, so it goes to second stage.

[beachtech]

It may be starting up in first stage. And you don't notice it because your asleep.
But, because of the duct work. It can't bring the temp up in the room where it is fast enough, so it goes to second stage.

sounds like it to me :)

[Focko]

Be glad it's 2-stage. If 2nd stage isn't needed, it won't be turned on. This is easier on the life of your furnace.

If it's oversized, ditto, easier on the furnace that it has 2 stages, and more efficient for you.

Most 2-stage furnaces have a jumper on the control board to be set indicating one or 2 stage thermostat. For it to work as it should with a 2-stage control system, the stat and connections both have to be set up for 2-stage.

If you're at high altitude, your particular furnace might need a different set of pressure switches in order to be able to turn on 2nd stage.

If I missed something already posted that explains this, sorry. I deal with this all the time.

[beachtech]

either stage is not good on the furnace if the duct system is ailing :)

[Focko]

either stage is not good on the furnace if the duct system is ailing :)

True, for sure. I jumped a little quick at giving my 2 cents here.

[beachtech]

True, for sure. I jumped a little quick at giving my 2 cents here.

let you slide this time :p :D lol

2 cents is always welcome :) just know when to put forth ;)

[beachtech]

danged double post

danged double post


:D

[Focko]

let you slide this time :p :D lol

2 cents is always welcome :) just know when to put forth ;)

OK, but hey the pressure switch is a new angle. Some G61's installed here wouldn't go to 2nd stage because the draft wasn't proven, and that was because of the altitude here. I'm at right around 3300 feet and lots of customers are around 4000' or a little higher. There is a different set of pressure switches needed. We retrofitted a lot of these so that 2nd stage could kick in.

Just trying to say I'm not full of it. :D

[beachtech]

i am at SEA level :p

chill out man :) i am not trying to discredit you ;)

[Salemno]

I am having problems with my new VisionPRO thermostat, it is installed in a new hybrid system, but I can not get the heat to set above 70. I have tired resetting all schedules etc. Is this because we have a heat pump as back up for em heat? I have looked at the owner manuals and it doesn't say anything about this.

I am going to call the guy who installed the system, but I wanted to see if there is something I am missing first.

[mayguy]

Salemno,

You saying that you are not able to raise the set point higher than 70˚ on the main screen or program mode?

I would say that the installing mode, 70˚ was set as a limit. This can be changed in the installer settings.

[gary_g]

I am having problems with my new VisionPRO thermostat, it is installed in a new hybrid system, but I can not get the heat to set above 70. I have tired resetting all schedules etc. Is this because we have a heat pump as back up for em heat? I have looked at the owner manuals and it doesn't say anything about this.

I am going to call the guy who installed the system, but I wanted to see if there is something I am missing first.

You only have the Operating Manual for your VisionPro. You need the Installation Manual. That's the manual with all the secret codes :).

[gary_g]

?

[beenthere]

The heat pump is not used as emergency or back up heat in a dual fuel system.

Have your installer come back out and set it up for you.
Or replace the stat if its bad.

[Alden_Sloe]

I am having problems with my new VisionPRO thermostat, it is installed in a new hybrid system, but I can not get the heat to set above 70. I have tired resetting all schedules etc. Is this because we have a heat pump as back up for em heat? I have looked at the owner manuals and it doesn't say anything about this.

I am going to call the guy who installed the system, but I wanted to see if there is something I am missing first.
Here's a link to the basic Install manual:

http://customer.honeywell.com/techlit/pdf/PackedLit/69-1816EFS.pdf

I'm assuming you have the VisionPro IAQ but maybe not? If it's a different model then you'll have to track down the appropriate manual.

Look at set up function 600, "Heat temperature range stop". I suspect it's set at 70. Changing that to the default 90 should have you toasty warm :)

[mayguy]

I suspect it's set at 70. Changing that to the default 90 should have you toasty warm :)

Yikes, I got mine lock at 70˚. No need to have heat on any higher than that, and the cool is locked to 75˚.

[Salemno]

Thanks for the info, I found the installation instructions, so I will see what I can figure out with the default.