PDA

View Full Version : 3 issues, new HVAC, chimney, hot MB



mchellep
10-05-2008, 10:02 PM
I have gotten my head straight with much thanks on a possible crckd HX here. I've been reading for days. I have a few problems that may or may not be connected -if not appropriate for here, please disregard. What would you do? House is 2 story,w/ finished basement, 4500 sq ft, 20 yrs old, not well maintained by prev. owner.

1. Old heating cooling unit needs to be replaced. It is the 2nd unit for house located in attic. Serves upstairs only. Basement unit is for main floor and basement. A few years old.
Replacement quotes include:
York – 75k btu, heating, 2 ton cooling. + airbear upgrade and disconnect upgrade for all options.
Gold – 80% furnace, 13 seer,:
Platinum – 2 stage 80% 13 seer:
Titanium – 2 stage 80% variable speed, 13 seer

Rheem – 50K btu, heating 2 ton cooling +additional for 10 yr parts labor
Basic -13 seer, 80%,
Classic 14 seer, 80% (maybe 2 stage?)
Classic plus – 2 stage vs, 15 seer

This is ALL the info I received. No one said squat about ducts, R22 or 410, or venting, etc. These are the two big dog comp. in my town. I would have just picked one at face value, but after reading here, how did they arrive at these options. Does it matter, any will be fine? I would go with the Gold or Basic for our purposes and comfort.

I have heard from city inspectors that the Rheem co. rarely makes mistakes. I used them in my last home and was fine. In fact, the city inspector did not even go into the attic to check after install, assuming it was fine. Yep. It was a small crawl through and he was a bit older.
York is locally made, I was told, and their city wide rep is very good also.
When we moved into the house we had the ducts cleaned and they mentioned something to us about rusting ducts, I think.

2. Fireplace – removed 20 year old wood burning insert and the blower did not work. It smelled like old burnt wood in the house and is getting better now. Chimney was lined with flue tiles. The company that removed the insert cleaned the chimney and said we needed a stainless liner or a poured liner and that it was not safe and that was causing odor (not pressure, I asked about that) (at 10 times the cost of the next company’s quote). 2nd company said it was fine after a few repairs and cap sealed. I see now that some heaters are vented through the chimney – we have 2 flues. No one has said squat to me about that, so I assume the attic unit vents through attic ceiliing, not chimney. There is a non working fireplace in the basement and I have been told it cannot be made to function. I assume this is what the 2nd flue was for… but something during the build prevented it from being finished.

3. Hot master bedroom and bath. Off of MB is sun room that is climate controlled, but still hot or cold. Don’t care about that. Like the MB to be cold. The exhaust in the bath vents to nowhere. The stat is in the great room with high ceiling. Have been told to close off vents in this room so it didn’t cool as fast as MB.
I have received pricing on a mini split and a through the wall unit. For same identical install, one minisplit was double the other and the through the wall was half as much. The wall is brick, not siding. The windows are not suited for a window unit. I would almost rather have a portable unit with a smaller hole in the wall than a through the wall – at much less cost than the minisplit. Mini splits are a little new around here apparently. These rooms are at least 10 degrees hotter when our body heat starts working.

I think that’s it for this. I am just overwhelmed and don’t even know where to begin. I don’t want to waste my money or time diddling around, but I worry that I’m not going to get the right fix. Is there someone that I could hire as a consultant that I would know is on MY side - cost and quality of the job. Not a GC who can do it all, but someone that would really tell me what's what. We had a home inspection, but after this and many other issues, I can't see that that's the way to go.

If you’ve stuck with this so far and are interested in responding, thank you. If not, believe me, I understand!

hearthman
10-05-2008, 10:33 PM
First of all, no pricing here--see site rules.

When you pull a slammer woodstove insert, you have 3rd degree glaze creosote that needs to be removed. Regardless of the method, you will not remove it all. If the flue tiles or joints are compromised, it must be relined regardless. To reline for wood, it must meet UL 1777, which means a stainless steel liner with special insulation or a cast liner to the listing. You must size the liner to the opening of the fireplace, which usually means busting out the old flue tile.
Since you have a fireplace downstairs, you should have two flues in that chimney-one for each Fp. Get a pro to perform an NFPA level II inspection. I would be very wary of a sweep declaring a chimney ok after knowing a slammer burned in there for 20 yrs. Many slammers have suffered multiple chimney fires, which can destroy the flue even if it hasn't burned the house down yet. FYI, if there is evidence of chimney fires, your insurance may pay for a liner.

HTH

mchellep
10-05-2008, 10:50 PM
Hi Hearthman,
I read many of your posts while searching for that portion of my dilemma. So the chimney needs to be resized which is why the need for the liner? And because they probably were not able to clean the creosote? What do you mean relined for wood? Wasn't the insert wood burning? No evidence of a fire - too bad for me. So the odor doesn't have anything to do with the house pressure then? By the way, it is gone now that we have had the cap sealed.

Also, I have read elsewhere that if the flue tiles and joints that may be compromised are within reach, they can be repaired. The co that wants to reline and they said they could do a better inspection, but it'd just show what they told me so why spend the $. They have great camera technology, but I was warned about them by my realtor long before this issue. Over selling her personally on one of her clients - but that is all gossip really.

I did read the site rules, thought I left out pricing? I'll double check. I was trying to give scope of differences. Is that pricing? or is it appropriate as is. (I did have a number in there as an example, but it's gone now - will it suffice?)

Thank you.

hearthman
10-05-2008, 11:06 PM
The chimney must meet the class of service. If you pull the stove intending on burning wood, then it must meet that requirement. If a level II inspection reveals damaged flue tiles, there is no recognized repair so you must reline and that means a liner sized per the bldg codes to UL 1777.

The pricing was on the chimney repairs prices, which you fixed.

Be careful of your realtor. Many think they understand these things but, speaking as a former Realtor, GRI, I find very, very few who know which end of a fireplace to light, must less a thing about chimney inspections. I would recommend the camera inspection if you think you are not going to reline it.

To smell the glaze creosote, you need three things:
creosote
an open pathway (i.e. open flue)
a pressure gradient to cause the odors to come down back into the home rather than up and out.

If you smell the Fp, there is almost guaranteed some degree of negative pressure in the home. If you begin smelling it, open a basement window or one on the upwind side of the home and see if that doesn't make it go away.

As long as you have creosote in the flue, you could be breathing polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons, which are carcinogens. Just another reason to reline.

HTH

mchellep
10-05-2008, 11:17 PM
Very helpful, thank you. I just saw the Fireplace section at the bottom of the list. I would have/should have put this issue there. Thank you for your help on this.

Yeah, I'm leery of the realtor (and now everyone because of this whole process).

The company that wants to reline does top notch work. That isn't disputable. We were going to reline, but have had so many other issues come up, we're trying to sort through the priorities. We can't afford to do it all and from a safety standpoint it seems we can't afford not to.

Thanks again.