Digi-cools.....I've got the credit card ready!

[I_bend_metal]

Guys...I know there is another thread on here about these gauges but I have the credit card ready to go and I have a few questions.

1) If I order them tonight I will get the DRSA-1200 (the 1250's are not out yet) correct?

2) If I get the 1200's will the new improved parts for the 1250's be compatible with the 1200's?

3) Should I go with the 1200's or wait it out for the 1250's?

4) One of my techs says I am nuts and they aren't all that beneficial compared to how much they cost...will I be able to really rub it in his face about how great they are compared to analog? :D

5) Where can I get the best price on them?


Thanks guys.....gotta mow the grass now

[bustawrench1]

You've got mail.

[I_bend_metal]

Did you put a stamp on it? 42 cents now remember :D

(I didn't get anything)

[bustawrench1]

Is the email in your profile correct?

[I_bend_metal]

Yeah...and I have gotten many emails from members on this site....so something is fubar.

[emcoasthvacr]

After 2 years of busting knuckles on residential, commercial rtu's, refrigeration, as well as a few contracts with hydronic systems in the 1000's of tons, I still think they're way too overpriced.

Maybe I'll see the value eventually, but I still think the cost is a joke -- I can think of at least a dozen tools I'd rather spend the extra coin on.

[beachtech]

After 2 years of busting knuckles on residential, commercial rtu's, refrigeration, as well as a few contracts with hydronic systems in the 1000's of tons, I still think they're way too overpriced.

Maybe I'll see the value eventually, but I still think the cost is a joke -- I can think of at least a dozen tools I'd rather spend the extra coin on.

i have spent the coin on digital refrigerant gauges and all those other tools :) the price isn't going to get and cheaper :)

[weber]

Guys...I know there is another thread on here about these gauges but I have the credit card ready to go and I have a few questions.

1) If I order them tonight I will get the DRSA-1200 (the 1250's are not out yet) correct?

You will get the 1200, 1250 will be out very soon



2) If I get the 1200's will the new improved parts for the 1250's be compatible with the 1200's?

Yes, but who knows when the upgrade will be available might be soon but could be later



3) Should I go with the 1200's or wait it out for the 1250's?

Thats is up to you, you might get a better deal buying the 1200's and upgrading yourself



4) One of my techs says I am nuts and they aren't all that beneficial compared to how much they cost...will I be able to really rub it in his face about how great they are compared to analog? :D

Tell him he must not care about accuracy and the quality of his work. You will be fixing his call backs so dont worry about him.



5) Where can I get the best price on them?

Best price I have found is on Truetechtools.com It doesnt come with the manifold, but you should be able to get a titan 4 valve with hoses pretty cheap



Thanks guys.....gotta mow the grass now

Just getting home, so Im not sure if I will get to my grass to tonight, and tomorrow I have cut my parents few acres for them.

[I_bend_metal]

Do I really need a 4 valve manifold? Was thinking about a 3 valve...I won't use the manifolds to pull vacs with...I have a set I use for only pulling vacs.

[weber]

Bender, you have mail. let me know of you get it.

[I_bend_metal]

Is the email in your profile correct?

Busta.....got your email....thanks for the info!

[weber]

Do I really need a 4 valve manifold? Was thinking about a 3 valve...I won't use the manifolds to pull vacs with...I have a set I use for only pulling vacs.

A 4valve is a 3valve with an extra one.

I perfer the titan 4 valve. Works great, and fits on it perfect. Nice looking setup!

[I_bend_metal]

Web....got it! Thanks! I will be placing the order either tonight or tomorrow night.

Do they take Am Ex?

[weber]

Web....got it! Thanks! I will be placing the order either tonight or tomorrow night.

Do they take Am Ex?

I believe so, all credit cards go through paypal.

[mark beiser]

I've been using a Digi-Cool BTD-1000 for a little over 3 years now, and have had a Testo 523 for just over a year.
I'll likely pick up a Digi-Cool 1250 when they come out.

The only thing I'll use analogue gauges for anymore is for recovering refrigerant.

Before I used digital gauges, I used 1% accuracy brass gauges with tempered glass lenses, and replaced them at least once a year because thats about how long it took before the bourdon tube in them got out of calibration.
A pair of brass 1% gauges, with no manifold, costs about $50-$60.
My BTD-1000 is still going strong, and is still accurate, after 3 years of unpampered field use. I actually abuse them worse than I ever treated my analogue gauges.
The BTD-1000 cost me $400, I already had the manifold they are mounted on. I likely would have spent at least $200 replacing analogue gauges, on that same manifold, over the last 3 years.

When you figure the long term cost of ownership, good quality, robustly built digital gauges are not as much more expensive than analogues as the up front price seems.

When you also consider the elimination of the parallax error inherent to reading an analogue gauge, as well as the interpolation errors involved with converting the pressure to saturated temperature, going digital is the obvious choice.

[I_bend_metal]

Guys, thanks for everything...done deal!! Just placed the order and will hopefully be posting pictures of them next week when they get here! I have been researching these things pretty hard for the past few weeks and with everything I have read and heard these are the best.

Web...thanks again...something you didn't have to do but much appreciated!

[weber]

No problem!

[bustawrench1]

Just placed the order and will hopefully be posting pictures of them next week when they get here! I have been researching these things pretty hard for the past few weeks and with everything I have read and heard these are the best.

!

Y'up, me too.

I've been meaning to order set for a couple of months now, just got off my a** and did it.

I think Jim Sr is going to be busy on Monday, the in-stock counter on his site is dropping like a lead ballon.:cool:

[y7turbo]

Tell him he must not care about accuracy and the quality of his work. You will be fixing his call backs so dont worry about him.





now I know all about the HVAC-TALK digital gauge bandwagon but i still think your comment is bull****.

to imply that people will have callbacks just because they dont use digital gauges is bull****.

to say that someone "must not care" is a dumb comment.

the refrigeration cycle was invented before digital gauges were. reading some of your posts, you act like no one was ever able to repair a system untill now. I dont use digital gauges, I dont get callbacks. I wonder how that can be since i dont use digital gauges.


keep talking **** about someone you dont know over the internet, you only know 1 comment from someone but you think "they dont care" and they have callbacks.

its bull****, a simple "yes" or no" would have answered his question.

[weber]

now I know all about the HVAC-TALK digital gauge bandwagon but i still think your comment is bull****.

to imply that people will have callbacks just because they dont use digital gauges is bull****.

to say that someone "must not care" is a dumb comment.

the refrigeration cycle was invented before digital gauges were. reading some of your posts, you act like no one was ever able to repair a system untill now. I dont use digital gauges, I dont get callbacks. I wonder how that can be since i dont use digital gauges.


keep talking **** about someone you dont know over the internet, you only know 1 comment from someone but you think "they dont care" and they have callbacks.

its bull****, a simple "yes" or no" would have answered his question.

Calm down there Turbo!

its all about acuracy, would a doctor use an x-ray or a MRI? A long time ago he didnt have a choice, so he used the x-ray.


The majority of techs do not calibrate their gauges everyday, your analog gauges need checked everyday and then still can be off and misinterpreted.

And yes, to tell someone not to invest into their carrer speaks volumes about his character!

[y7turbo]

Calm down there Turbo!

lol i guess im still a little upset about the job i just left. long story and im sure no one wants to hear about it.


I would have to say that i just disagree with your views on this subject.

just wondering, how often do you guys who have digitals check your gauges to make sure they are reading correctly?

[weber]

Every time they turn on they calibrate.

I calibrate all of my guys gauges off my digitals, you would be surprised at how off some guys gauges are! And thats only after a week of use, and you better check the new ones right out of the box!

Im not saying that just because you dont use digitals your going to have call backs, but you will not be as accurate as you can be, and that it self can turn into call backs, mis diagnosis, and not providing the highest level of service to your customers.

[y7turbo]

Every time they turn on they calibrate.



so your saying a pressure sensor can never be off? or do they just "zero" out when they turn on?

[weber]

so your saying a pressure sensor can never be off? or do they just "zero" out when they turn on?

They do more the just zero out.

Pressure transducers do go bad, but is very obvious when they go bad. The transducer doesn't transfer the signal, so it reads 0 or very low on very high pressure.

[mark beiser]

just wondering, how often do you guys who have digitals check your gauges to make sure they are reading correctly?

About once a month I pull a jug of R22 and a jug of R410A off my truck and set it on a piece of foam in my living room.
A few hours later I hook up my digi-cool and testo gauges and check the displayed saturated temp vs the bottle temp measured with a surface probe thermocouple. They have never been off by more than 1º on either refrigerant, usually is within 1/2º.

I keep pressure in my manifold at all times. Every time I turn my gauges on, I make sure they both read the same pressure with both valves open.
When I am disconnecting from a system, I close the ball valve on my high side hose, and open the valves to allow the system to pull the refrigerant back into the system from my high side hose. I look to be sure both gauges are reading the same, then close the ball valve on the low side hose and disconnect it.
Basically my gauges get checked twice every time I use them. I figure both transducers won't be off by the same amount if they start going haywire. ;)

I used to follow the same procedure when I was using the 1% accuracy brass gauges I used for 10 years or so before finally hitting on digitals that were worth having.

[I_bend_metal]

Got my 1200's today....only had time to throw them on one system today but man are they cool!! It's amazing to be able to click a button and go back and forth from superheat and subcooling!! I used them to set up a system that needed about 8 ounces of R-22 removed to dial in the superheat and they worked great. I think I made a great choice with these and am looking forward to putting them through their paces tomorrow!

They alos look cool sitting on top of my Imperial Manifold :) :) :)

[weber]

Got my 1200's today....only had time to throw them on one system today but man are they cool!! It's amazing to be able to click a button and go back and forth from superheat and subcooling!! I used them to set up a system that needed about 8 ounces of R-22 removed to dial in the superheat and they worked great. I think I made a great choice with these and am looking forward to putting them through their paces tomorrow!

They alos look cool sitting on top of my Imperial Manifold :) :) :)

Post some pics!

[I_bend_metal]

I will do that after I get some food in me....the chilli cheese fries are in the oven now! ( the diet of a service tech...LOL )

Hey Web....I can see where I am going to want to modify the temperature probe to a clamp like you did....what type of glue or apoxy did you use??

[weber]

I used hot glue, make sure you insulate around the probe to isolate the sensor from ambient air.

[I_bend_metal]

Here are some pics....pay no attention to the actual readings...I was screwing around with my neighbor's AC unit.

These things are gonna be great!!

[tech55]

I try truetechtools.com but it didn't work. thanks

[tech55]

I try truetechtools.com but it didn't work. thanks

[I_bend_metal]

click me....


http://www.trutechtools.com

[stevensondrive]

Here are some pics....pay no attention to the actual readings...I was screwing around with my neighbor's AC unit.

These things are gonna be great!!

What are you doing with that American flag behind the condenser?? :eek:

nice gauges. I'm jealous :rolleyes:

[voodoo]

Did i miss something? How did u make it into a clamp on ? The probe that is?

[I_bend_metal]

What are you doing with that American flag behind the condenser?? :eek:

LOL....that's acually an umbrella to a kids picnic table....the color on my camera isn't the greatest....those stripes are actually redish-brown.... :D

[I_bend_metal]

Did i miss something? How did u make it into a clamp on ? The probe that is?

If you have these gauges or have seen them, then you know they come with a small probe that is glued to some velcro wrap to use to take your suction line temperature for super heat. Well, this can be a bit of a pain (the design is being changed on the new 1250's) so what Weber did was take the probe off of the velcro...used his hillbilly engineering degree and attached it to a "pipe clamp". Makes things easier in tighter spots....I am sure if you ask him nicely he will post some pics for you.

[beachtech]

you will be very happy i bend :)

i cannot put my Y/J's down for nothing. i bring them in every night because if i got robbed i couldn't go to work for two days :D:D:D

[I_bend_metal]

I know how you feel....broke them in good today....hooked them up to 5 systems....it's amazing how I feel like I have finally stepped out of the dark ages!

[emcoasthvacr]

They certaintly don't seem to be getting any cheaper. I still don't have any use for them.

You live in one of the nicest places in the country -- try going to the outer banks and try some fishing sometime :cool:


i have spent the coin on digital refrigerant gauges and all those other tools :) the price isn't going to get and cheaper :)

[tarheel_tech]

Or smell the smoke from the wild fire.

[mwjhvac]

Would you posts some pics of that clamp? That strap is a Pain.

Thanks

[bustawrench1]

Yesterday was Christmas at my house, look what Santa brought me......

http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/2562/img1243fc5.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

So far it looks like a very nice tool.........not too sure about the velcro setup on the temp probe, but that's easy enough to fix if it becomes an issue.

Overall, I think it's going to make life much easier in the long run.

[weber]

Would you posts some pics of that clamp? That strap is a Pain.

Thanks

http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm198/WeberSteve/DSCF0039.jpg

http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm198/WeberSteve/DSCF0043.jpg

http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm198/WeberSteve/DSCF0048.jpg

http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm198/WeberSteve/0403081117.jpg

Some pics of the inside

http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm198/WeberSteve/DSCF0016.jpg

http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm198/WeberSteve/DSCF0015.jpg

And here is one of how durable it is

http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm198/WeberSteve/DSCF1376.jpg

[cjett]

I was thinking that I could modify the Fluke pipe clamp and put the probe from my YJ on the other side of the pipe jaws, then use cable ties to keep the two wire close together. That way I could use either probe or measure both at the same time with my 52 II hooked up also, or use one or the other as needed.

What say you?

[mwjhvac]

Thanks alot! what a great idea! Has anybody heard when they are or if they are coming out with a up grade kit. I thought I read something somewhere about a kit?

[270wsm]

You guys like the digicool better than the testo? I still use analog but if going digital is really worth it, i want the best.

[blackbelt3677]

They look real durable!!

[Reeferman]

After 2 years of busting knuckles on residential, commercial rtu's, refrigeration, as well as a few contracts with hydronic systems in the 1000's of tons, I still think they're way too overpriced.

Maybe I'll see the value eventually, but I still think the cost is a joke -- I can think of at least a dozen tools I'd rather spend the extra coin on.

Maybe you should go and buy one of those fine Refco units or maybe a Mastercool unit if you think the price is too much. But then again are you not the one who thinks you are worth $300 an hour?
You still have not answered my question of where your company is from.

[JWB]

[QUOTE=mark beiser;1882751]I keep pressure in my manifold at all times. Every time I turn my gauges on, I make sure they both read the same pressure with both valves open.
When I am disconnecting from a system, I close the ball valve on my high side hose, and open the valves to allow the system to pull the refrigerant back into the system from my high side hose. I look to be sure both gauges are reading the same, then close the ball valve on the low side hose and disconnect it.
QUOTE]

Are your ball valves are at the end of each hose? Is there any cross contamination between systems and/or refrigerants? Not *****ing at you, just a sincere question. I like the idea about ball valves at the ends, just was wondering at work if that would be a nice addition to or a hastle not worth the money.....

[jim bergmann]

Dumping the refrigerant from the high side hose into the system is no longer a good practice. Most systems are so critically charged, (unless they are over 5 tons) that the refrigerant in the hose will over charge the system. An ounce or two can make a significant difference in operation.

[a/cpro]

Jonstone is carrying a didgital manifold in a low price range half of what the other sets are i cant remember the name but they are yellow and in a green package.
they sell like hot cakes but i dont know anyone who has tryed them.
Joe

[weber]

Dumping the refrigerant from the high side hose into the system is no longer a good practice. Most systems are so critically charged, (unless they are over 5 tons) that the refrigerant in the hose will over charge the system. An ounce or two can make a significant difference in operation.

I have to disagree.

You walk up to a unit and put your gauges on, when your take your gauges off if you do not dump your high side back into the system you will be removing a larger amount of refrigerant from the system resulting in an under charged and reduced output.

[stevensondrive]

I have to disagree.

You walk up to a unit and put your gauges on, when your take your gauges off if you do not dump your high side back into the system you will be removing a larger amount of refrigerant from the system resulting in an under charged and reduced output.

if the liquid is in your hoses, it is not in the system. If you close the do-hickey valve on the liquid schraedar valve and dump it into the suction side you just added freon to the system. I've had many times where I did this and ended up dropping my SH to dang low :mad:

((((as a newbie I do appologize for questioning you)))) ;)

[beachtech]

if the liquid is in your hoses, it is not in the system. If you close the do-hickey valve on the liquid schraedar valve and dump it into the suction side you just added freon to the system. I've had many times where I did this and ended up dropping my SH to dang low :mad:

((((as a newbie I do appologize for questioning you)))) ;)

6ft hoses and 4 valve manifold under vapor is far less that 2oz of refrigerant. then you hook you high side hose to the system and now it has at least 2oz normally 3oz to 4oz refrigerant in it. if you remove this hose and do not return this liquid back to the system, after a couple years of doing PM's on this system you will be looking for this mystery leak :)

leaving refridgerant in your hoses doesn't really add any refridgerant to a system as long as you connecting with vapor :) plus it makes your hoses and seals last longer, because they never dry out. i have been practicing this for over 5yrs now and haven't had one problem.

[beachtech]

Are your ball valves are at the end of each hose? Is there any cross contamination between systems and/or refrigerants? Not *****ing at you, just a sincere question. I like the idea about ball valves at the ends, just was wondering at work if that would be a nice addition to or a hastle not worth the money.....

yellow jacket makes low loss hoses. i have some sets of these hoses that are 4yrs old and work great. they are also rebuildable too. its the morons that crank down on thier hose ends that have the complaints about low loss hoses. they are more durable than the ball valves, in my experience.

and we aren't doing blood work here. just fixing an air conditioner :) if you use the same set of gauges for different types of refrigerant then you will need to purge your hoses with the next refrigerant. and if you just took your gauges off a burn out, then i recommend purging out the hoses then too. but from a normally operating system, to a normally opertaing system, i have never had that call back :)

[stevensondrive]

6ft hoses and 4 valve manifold under vapor is far less that 2oz of refrigerant. then you hook you high side hose to the system and now it has at least 2oz normally 3oz to 4oz refrigerant in it. if you remove this hose and do not return this liquid back to the system, after a couple years of doing PM's on this system you will be looking for this mystery leak :)

leaving refridgerant in your hoses doesn't really add any refridgerant to a system as long as you connecting with vapor :) plus it makes your hoses and seals last longer, because they never dry out. i have been practicing this for over 5yrs now and haven't had one problem.

we are comparing apples and oranges. I was referring to tweeking the charge once the install was done. you are referring to hooking up your hoses to an existing system. we are both right. ok, I might be a little more right ;)

[weber]

if the liquid is in your hoses, it is not in the system. If you close the do-hickey valve on the liquid schraedar valve and dump it into the suction side you just added freon to the system. I've had many times where I did this and ended up dropping my SH to dang low :mad:

((((as a newbie I do appologize for questioning you)))) ;)

Really, so are you passing aids from one system to another? Your taking liquid from one system and passing it to another?

Are your hooking your gauges up with refrigerant already in them? and then releasing it into the system?

[I_bend_metal]

There is absolutely nothing wrong with dumping your high side back into a system through your low side. I do it all the time, EVERY time. When I get done with a system I dump my high side back into my low side and leave a charge in my gauges of nothing but vapor. I use 3 foot hoses and have never had a single problem with doing things this way. The only exception to this is when I come across a system with acid in it....at that point I flush my hoses when they come off the system.

[jim bergmann]

You guys are KILLING me :rolleyes:, as soon as you attach your gauges to a system, you change the charge. The ONLY way to properly charge the system (if it was correctly charged in the first place) is to add some gas into the system.

The refrigerant in your hoses is not in the system, If you add it to the system via dumping it from the high side, you will overcharge. Refrigerant charge is more critical than it has ever been, and the refrigerant liquid in a 5-6 foot hose will change things drastically.

[tarheel_tech]

I only keep about 20 psi of vapor in my gauges,don't think that will affect a charge much if any.

[weber]

You guys are KILLING me :rolleyes:, as soon as you attach your gauges to a system, you change the charge. The ONLY way to properly charge the system (if it was correctly charged in the first place) is to add some gas into the system.

The refrigerant in your hoses is not in the system, If you add it to the system via dumping it from the high side, you will overcharge. Refrigerant charge is more critical than it has ever been, and the refrigerant liquid in a 5-6 foot hose will change things drastically.

If the system is properly charged and you have zero in your gauges, you are removing refrigerant by not pulling the liquid back into the system, not adding.

If you were charging a system, and you properly charged to manufactures specs and then add the volume that was in your gauges into the refrigerant you have just added more then needed, intill the next time someone had the gauges on the unit.

[I_bend_metal]

You guys are KILLING me :rolleyes:, as soon as you attach your gauges to a system, you change the charge. The ONLY way to properly charge the system (if it was correctly charged in the first place) is to add some gas into the system.

The refrigerant in your hoses is not in the system, If you add it to the system via dumping it from the high side, you will overcharge. Refrigerant charge is more critical than it has ever been, and the refrigerant liquid in a 5-6 foot hose will change things drastically.

Hmmmm...exactly how much refrigerant do I have in my hoses if I am leaving.....lets say 75 psi of vapor in both sides with 3 foot hoses? :rolleyes:

The need to be exact is true...but there is a little bit of plus/minus built in.

[weber]

Bender, did you get mail? You need to learn to respond:cool:

[I_bend_metal]

Just checked....I have a bad habit of not leaving my email running in the background....thanks....

....are the names the same??

[weber]

Just checked....I have a bad habit of not leaving my email running in the background....thanks....

....are the names the same??

Some

[I_bend_metal]

I'm in.....shortly....thanks again!

[Reeferman]

You guys are KILLING me :rolleyes:, as soon as you attach your gauges to a system, you change the charge. The ONLY way to properly charge the system (if it was correctly charged in the first place) is to add some gas into the system.

The refrigerant in your hoses is not in the system, If you add it to the system via dumping it from the high side, you will overcharge. Refrigerant charge is more critical than it has ever been, and the refrigerant liquid in a 5-6 foot hose will change things drastically.

Jim I know I am just a dumb ass reefer mechanic but how the hell do you install gauges on a system without disturbing the charge?

[weber]

Well then I guess the manufacture need to start putting a high and low side gauge built into the unit so all you have to do is walk up to it.

Or You can just leave your gauges hooked up to every system you install and work on, so all you have to do is walk up to it an take a look. (just add another 60 bucks to job) and in that case we can start to do service calls over the phone, just have the customer go out and tell you what the pressures and temps are and you could tell them to change the filter, over the phone. But then we start losing money for not going out...

Or testo can make a pressure transducer that attaches directly to the system so there are no hose to consume volume of refrigerant.



;)

[jim bergmann]

Jim I know I am just a dumb ass reefer mechanic but how the hell do you install gauges on a system without disturbing the charge?

You don't!
And the moral of the story is you should not install gauges on the system. If you understand the system you are working on, you do not need to install the gauges after the initial commissioning process to check operation. If the equipment has been bench marked and the design temperature difference of the evaporator and condenser known, the superheat and subcooling can be verified with a thermometer without gauges.

Simply if you don't know exactly what the pressure will be before you install the gauges, what difference does it make what they are. For the most part you cannot adjust them.

You would never check the charge first on your refrigerator at home if it was down, you would first check the cleanliness of the evaporator and condenser. Yet we think the first thing we need to do is install gauges. As soon as gauges are installed the system charge is affected.

As soon as you hook up the hoses, you have taken gas from the system. If the system is critically charged, it will not operate properly until you put that gas back in. So again it is impossible to properly set up the system without adding some refrigerant back in to compensate for what is in your hoses. If you then dump what is in the high side back into the system, you will overcharge it. You cannot achieve 13 seer or above with proper charge.

There are only three times the gauges need to be attached to a system.

When commissioned
When the design temperature difference no longer is true
When decommissioned
.

If you are attaching your gauges for any other reason, you are doing s disservice to your customers. The refrigeration system is a sealed system and it should stay that way.

For more information on checking the charge without gauges, reference the Testo Air Conditioning Applications Guide.

[stevensondrive]

Are your hooking your gauges up with refrigerant already in them? and then releasing it into the system?

no. no.
hoses are empty when hooking up. what I am referring to is after you have tweeked the charge to the exact point. your high side is full of liquid. what do you do with it? if you put it back into the system you have effectively added freon to the system. in my experience, that usually messes up your SH.

Steve

[Reeferman]

You don't!
And the moral of the story is you should not install gauges on the system. If you understand the system you are working on, you do not need to install the gauges after the initial commissioning process to check operation. If the equipment has been bench marked and the design temperature difference of the evaporator and condenser known, the superheat and subcooling can be verified with a thermometer without gauges.

Simply if you don't know exactly what the pressure will be before you install the gauges, what difference does it make what they are. For the most part you cannot adjust them.

You would never check the charge first on your refrigerator at home if it was down, you would first check the cleanliness of the evaporator and condenser. Yet we think the first thing we need to do is install gauges. As soon as gauges are installed the system charge is affected.

As soon as you hook up the hoses, you have taken gas from the system. If the system is critically charged, it will not operate properly until you put that gas back in. So again it is impossible to properly set up the system without adding some refrigerant back in to compensate for what is in your hoses. If you then dump what is in the high side back into the system, you will overcharge it. You cannot achieve 13 seer or above with proper charge.

There are only three times the gauges need to be attached to a system.

When commissioned
When the design temperature difference no longer is true
When decommissioned.

If you are attaching your gauges for any other reason, you are doing s disservice to your customers. The refrigeration system is a sealed system and it should stay that way.

For more information on checking the charge without gauges, reference the Testo Air Conditioning Applications Guide.

Not on the systems I work on. My video camera is still waiting.

[Mrcyber07]

hummm have never used a set of digitals,,,do they come with a book lol...think i gonna get a set tho got company credit card,,,an they spare no expense..:)

[Ricoch3T]

hummm have never used a set of digitals,,,do they come with a book lol...think i gonna get a set tho got company credit card,,,an they spare no expense..:)

I know what you mean there. I've been thinking about a set also. I'll have to get the credit card out soon too. Bad thing is I need a new manifold also.

[I_bend_metal]

Go with the Digi-cools guys!! You will not be dissappointed!! I just got a set a wek or two ago....I can't figure out how I loved without them!!

[MechAcc]

Testo Air Conditioning Applications Guide (http://www.testo.us/online/embedded/Sites/USA/MainNavigation/ApplicationInformation/HVAC_Refrigeration/PostCardReturn/AC_ApplicationsGuide.pdf)

[weber]

Testo Air Conditioning Applications Guide (http://www.testo.us/online/embedded/Sites/USA/MainNavigation/ApplicationInformation/HVAC_Refrigeration/PostCardReturn/AC_ApplicationsGuide.pdf)

LOL, you posted a link to an article when the author is posting on this thread!

[Twilly]

Testo Air Conditioning Applications Guide (http://www.testo.us/online/embedded/Sites/USA/MainNavigation/ApplicationInformation/HVAC_Refrigeration/PostCardReturn/AC_ApplicationsGuide.pdf)


Twilli says thanks for the link, Twilli has printed it out and will do some studying

[mblanks]

Go with the Digi-cools guys!! You will not be dissappointed!!

Yup! Just got a set two weeks ago. Can't see how I've managed without them. I have few jealous techs around me now. :D
Seriously, they are an excellent toy, oops I meant tool. Very sturdy, accurate and make troubleshooting much faster and easier. I've got mine on a 4v Brute II. 3/8" ported manifold with 3/8 vacuum hose.Excellent choice in tools.


You will not be dissappointed!!

[weber]

For you guys in the market for the digitals, check out trutechtools.com they have some of the best prices and service there is!

[Twilly]

Whats the difference between Digi-cools and YJ????

[weber]

Whats the difference between Digi-cools and YJ????

The color and where you buy them from.:)

It depends on the model.

[Twilly]

Thats what Twilli thought, Twilli got two sets and not mad anymore since Doug Lockhart stepped up and took care of Twilli's minor problem......Kudos to Doug

[Twilly]

Twilli wants Weber to make Twilli clamp on temp probe

[Twilly]

Twilli pay with CC to Webers business

[Twilly]

Or Twilli pay cash, tell Twilli how much?

[weber]

Send me the stuff and I'll do it for free.

I thought one of my guys had a clamp that the wires broke on, if so you can just send me the digi-cool probe.

[Twilly]

Thanks tell Twilli what clamp costs and Twilli send probe and check for clamp, also Twilli needs your address again.

[Twilly]

You can email or call Twilli

[weber]

See if your local supply house has the field piece or fluke pipe clamp. I will see if we have one laying around so that way you dont have to spend any money.

I find out and shoot you an email or call you.

[Twilly]

Twilli is willing to buy one, if you have a source

[MechAcc]

Twilli is willing to buy one, if you have a source

Just go to Farm n Fleet or hardware store and get an Irwin clamp. :D

[itsiceman]

Twilli is willing to buy one, if you have a source
Can't Twilli wait a month or so and buy a Digi-Cool clamp probe from Doug to help support his habit?

He seams like a good guy that really cares about the Twilli :D