View Full Version : Climate Master vs ComfortAire
05-14-2008, 02:47 PM
I'm looking at the ClimateMaster Tranquility 27 and Heat Controller (ComfortAire) GeoMax 2 two stage geothermal models. The sales guy said they are the same but the ComfortAire is about $xxxx less and comes with the CuNi coil standard. So are they really the same? Is it worth the extra to get the Climate Master name on it?
05-15-2008, 09:10 AM
Does anyone know about these brands?
Thanks in advance,
05-15-2008, 09:26 AM
I prefer waterfurnace, simply because they have the best dealer training of any geo company I have seen to date. However If I had to choose between the two you listed I would go with climatemaster. Very good quality.
I would get refferals from your bidders and talk to them. Make sure the refferals are people who have had their systems for two to three years. this will give you a good idea of performance and dealer customer service. Ask to see the training and qualifications the installing company has for geo applications.
You may want to check with I.G.S.H.P.A. and ask for certified installers in your area. here is a link to them http://www.igshpa.okstate.edu/
05-29-2008, 09:20 AM
I too would like to know if the Comfortaire is of the same quality as the Climatemaster.
It is indeed manufactured by Climatemaster as are the Carrier and Bryant models. I spoke with a Regional Rep and he confirmed all of those brands, but would not offer any insight on anything except the Climatemaster unit itself.
What is the bottom line?
Someone has to know right?
Would you buy the Comfortaire if it saves you money?
Is the CuNi coil worth mentioning or is that something added to the description to make to unit sound better?
My other BIG question is: Why do no two installers agree on loop design???
I have spoke to several and have quotes from a couple and they all have different designs. And they all criticize the other guy's design. I don't get it and I am extremely frustrated!
05-29-2008, 01:46 PM
Well I went with the Comfortaire. According to my guy they are exactly the same and the desuperheater and CuNi coil come standard on it, Climatemaster they are options. He said the control boards are the same and described that they are on opposite sides of the unit or something.
05-29-2008, 01:53 PM
Thanks. How many tons did you go with and please detail your loop for me.
05-29-2008, 02:24 PM
I do not have all the details on the loop layout but here are the basics we talked about for a 4ton unit in Houston.
-650' total trench, 10-15' deep, 2' wide
-Lay 3/4" pipe along one side of the trench at the end loop it back along the other side of the trench into a 1 &1/4" header pipe that runs to the unit upstairs.
- Cover up first layer of pipe with 2' of dirt, lay another just like it.
- Cover up 2nd layer of pipe with 2' of dirt, lay a third.
- Backfill the trench.
I'd like to hear about yours too, where are you located? If you don't mind and they actually gave you drawings or something I'd like to see them. Email is smcmurrey at yahoo.com
05-29-2008, 03:02 PM
I have not done the install yet. I am in the Cincinnati, OH area. I have spoken with several installers and have quotes from a couple and all of their proposed loop systems differ in some way and they all criticize the "other" guy's method. This all leaves me completely unsure and untrusting of all of them.
After listening to all of their proposals, I have come up with my own but can't get anyone to say, "Yep that'll get the job done. Everyone thinks their way is the way it should be and everyone's way if different. :sad: This whole thing is stressing and depressing me to no end and I'm close to installing a standard air to air heat pump and saying to heck with the geothermal.
My "design" is 3 trenches 250-300', 7' deep, 2' wide. In the first two trenches lay a pipe on each side and cover them. Then bring all 4 pipes back in the third trench with a pipe on each side at 7' and the other two on each side at or near 5'.
That is what I have come up with and it is more trench, deeper, and more pipe than all of the installers have proposed. I can only see having more pipe than necessary being a problem if more friction head is created than the pump can handle. I am putting in 4 pipes instead of 3 to eliminate that potential.
Hopefully someone will chime in and say that will work or I'm an idiot and that will never work. I need some definitive answers and I have received none from here, the web, contractors, wholesalers, or manufacturers reps. I'm not willing to gamble $15-20K on my HVAC just because Jonhny Cockster sais, "this'll work".
05-29-2008, 04:25 PM
It's definately not easy to find info on the loop design and how much you really need. I figure if it's not enough I can have more added later since I have more room in the yard. How many ton's is your unit?
05-29-2008, 04:49 PM
They all tell me I need a 3-ton but I have yet to see any load calcs. Not one of them has measured my square footage of the house, let alone measured my sq ft of windows. I have 24 windows and let's just say they are not the most efficient things in the world.
My standard 3-ton heat pump always struggled to get the job done so I was leaning towards a 4-ton but everyone tells me not to do that. So I am in the process of getting new windows which will help immensely and that makes me feel more comfortable with the 3-ton recommendations.
I did just find that I need to maintain a minimum of 2 ft per second of flow in my entire loop, so I may have to re-think the idea of a 4th loop and go with three. I'll have to check what the gpm is on the unit I buy which I think is going to be the 3-ton Comfortaire unit.
05-27-2010, 12:36 PM
I'm doing the prebuild planning for a new home in Moyock, NC and will be adding a Water source geothermal Heat pump. I understand the pro's and cons of closed -V- open loop systems and will go with a open loop. How deep of a well should I tap and what GPH pump should I use.
05-27-2010, 12:45 PM
DIY Geothermal run amok on this thread :).
05-27-2010, 04:02 PM
The solution to your problem is quite easy. Find the contractor who does the Manual 'J' himself. Followed by a Manual 'D' for the ducts. Certified as a Ground Source Heat Pump installer. End of problem, you've found the right company. Any other selection is gambling with thousands of your hard earned dollars. There are many more factors to consider than just digging a couple of trenches and laying in some pipe. Just the fusion welding necessary requires certification. You can go to the IGSHPA website and maybe find a certified installer in your area.
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