Liebert Humidifier Lamp Question

[whec720]

Working on a Liebert System 3, model: FE110GUAAM, for a server room, that goes into a "humidifier problem" alarm. This model uses infrared lamps (four total) and a water pan.
The pan has been clean and the water level is normal. I cleaned off the overflow float sensor and it still goes into the same alarm, takes about a minute after the lamps light up. So I check the amps on the lamps: T1 - 6.5A, T2 - 11.2A, T3 - 6.2A. Then I get thinking, maybe the lamps, or at least one of them, are getting weak. I shut the unit down and check the resistance across each lamp. I noticed the resistances on the right side were higher than that of the left. The readings are as follows: Right, top and bottom - 3.5 ohm and 3.4 ohm, Left, top and bottom - 2.6ohm and 2.7ohm.
My question is; from the above readings, can you tell which lamps, if any, are faulty? I'm picking up lamps in the morning but would like to know if I am on the right track.
Thanks in advance.

[jogas]

Working on a Liebert System 3, model: FE110GUAAM, for a server room, that goes into a "humidifier problem" alarm. This model uses infrared lamps (four total) and a water pan.
The pan has been clean and the water level is normal. I cleaned off the overflow float sensor and it still goes into the same alarm, takes about a minute after the lamps light up. So I check the amps on the lamps: T1 - 6.5A, T2 - 11.2A, T3 - 6.2A. Then I get thinking, maybe the lamps, or at least one of them, are getting weak. I shut the unit down and check the resistance across each lamp. I noticed the resistances on the right side were higher than that of the left. The readings are as follows: Right, top and bottom - 3.5 ohm and 3.4 ohm, Left, top and bottom - 2.6ohm and 2.7ohm.
My question is; from the above readings, can you tell which lamps, if any, are faulty? I'm picking up lamps in the morning but would like to know if I am on the right track.
Thanks in advance.

I think you need to identify that particular models definition of "humidifier problem". I can't tell you off hand what it is. Check the IOM for that model unit.
Is the overflow sensor mounted at the right height? If tripped, will it produce the same alarm?
jogas

[mrhvacmechanic]

Usually "humidifier problem" occurs if your high level float goes up due to high level water.
I don't know if you had the problem after you cleaned the pan?? If you have the older model pan, make sure the standpipe or overflow pipe is all the way down in its socket.
The lamps do not get weak, they either light or don't.

[whec720]

Thanks guys. I'll look more closely at the float and water level. BTW, I was called to the job because of the alarm, so the pan cleaning was not the cause.

[roadhazard]

What ever you do, don't touch the lamps with your fingers. Use clean dry towels otherwise go ahead and order replacment bulbs.

[freddy-b]

Thanks guys. I'll look more closely at the float and water level. BTW, I was called to the job because of the alarm, so the pan cleaning was not the cause.

I am sure you know this, but in case you dont. Don't touch the lamps with your fingers. Oil from your skin will make them fail very prematurely.

And if I remember right, they are not cheap.

[kpaul]

I agree lamps won't give you the alarm, check to make sure the plug is seated properly and also check to make sure the float swicth is secure,
we have had those not promperly tightend and when pan finally fills it bobs around and trips alarm.
GOOD LUCK!:cool:

[lawrencep]

I belive this alarm is activated by high water float switch which is n.c. and opens on alarm.Might want to check for stuck switch or drain problem.

Good Luck

[Randy S.]

The drain and the four notches in the stand pipe need to be clear.

After that adjust the float so it opens before the pan runs over.

The newer models have a time delay on the alarm that may help with the bouncing of the float.

[overhaul]

the best way to see if the float is set correctly is to close up the unit, run it and go into " diagnostics". Go to" show inputs " and you can monitor swich status real time. Once you think you have it set right, slightly open a panel corner and visually confirm things look right. Also make sure your alarm time delay is set to 255 min. Really stops nusense trips

[whec720]

I went back this morning and sure enough, the pan was not draining properly. Nothing wrong with the float switch. It was doing its job. I removed the P trap and cleaned it out, but that was not the problem. The drain line that is from the evap pan was nearly completely clogged. I snaked that and ran hot water through all the drain ports, now water drains down quick.
After I confirmed the drain line was clear, I ran the humidifier. It went through its complete fill and flush cycles with no problem. Looks like I just got caught over thinking things.:o
Thanks to everyone for all the help. I also picked up a couple of service tips along the way.:)

[controldude]

I agree with mr.hvac also if you check your bulbs this one will have four bulbs
instead of three bulbs the 4 bulb system reads different amps vs. 3 bulb even amps

[NWChicago]

I went back this morning and sure enough, the pan was not draining properly. Nothing wrong with the float switch. It was doing its job. I removed the P trap and cleaned it out, but that was not the problem. The drain line that is from the evap pan was nearly completely clogged. I snaked that and ran hot water through all the drain ports, now water drains down quick.
After I confirmed the drain line was clear, I ran the humidifier. It went through its complete fill and flush cycles with no problem. Looks like I just got caught over thinking things.:o
Thanks to everyone for all the help. I also picked up a couple of service tips along the way.:)

Depending on when the unit was last serviced just snaking the trap may not take care of the problem.

There may be residual crap in the evaporator pan that flows later on once the evap starts to remove more moisture.. I have had this problem twice with units that were not serviced in years. Some of these units were moth balled form the .com crash as well.

I cleaned the traps after pulling them from the unit and flushed them out. These were for Drycooler type units and extreamly long drain lines.

I had to go back on one for clogging three months later....you know the clog.....looks like the turd that has been hanging in the toilet for too long. Once I ran water through the evap on the far side where the drain is not located did this take care of the problem. I also throw in the evap tablets for good measure.

[NWChicago]

Usually "humidifier problem" occurs if your high level float goes up due to high level water.
I don't know if you had the problem after you cleaned the pan?? If you have the older model pan, make sure the standpipe or overflow pipe is all the way down in its socket.
The lamps do not get weak, they either light or don't.

I have seen the lamps get weak....after so many thousands of hours they will not put out the same heat and need to be replaced.

You can tell the difference before and after a unit has been replamped if the bulbs are weak.

[whec720]

Depending on when the unit was last serviced just snaking the trap may not take care of the problem.

There may be residual crap in the evaporator pan that flows later on once the evap starts to remove more moisture.. I have had this problem twice with units that were not serviced in years. Some of these units were moth balled form the .com crash as well.

I cleaned the traps after pulling them from the unit and flushed them out. These were for Drycooler type units and extreamly long drain lines.

I had to go back on one for clogging three months later....you know the clog.....looks like the turd that has been hanging in the toilet for too long. Once I ran water through the evap on the far side where the drain is not located did this take care of the problem. I also throw in the evap tablets for good measure.

Yep, that is exactly what I had, a turd like clog. I snaked that evap line thoroughly, while running hot water to the evap. pan, till the brown water turned clear. The flush water was run directly to a bucket. Then I put the drain system back together and, again ran hot water down the evap and humidifier pans. The water now drained quickly and properly.
By the time I left, the drain was as good as new. I feel 100% confident in the work that I performed.

[NWChicago]

Yep, that is exactly what I had, a turd like clog. I snaked that evap line thoroughly, while running hot water to the evap. pan, till the brown water turned clear. The flush water was run directly to a bucket. Then I put the drain system back together and, again ran hot water down the evap and humidifier pans. The water now drained quickly and properly.
By the time I left, the drain was as good as new. I feel 100% confident in the work that I performed.

Sounds like you smoked that bad boy!!!!!

How about those Evaps on the twenty tonners holding almost five gallons of water!!

[whec720]

Sounds like you smoked that bad boy!!!!!

How about those Evaps on the twenty tonners holding almost five gallons of water!!

Yeah, I have seen that a time or two in the hot, humid summer months. That is why, for down flows/raised floors, I recommend the IT guys to get water sensors. I like to call them bugs because that is what they look like.

[atmosphere]

Leibert uses that same float switch on their Mini-Mate II machines, but it is for the high water (in condensate pan) alarm.
The same switch is turned 180 degrees for that application.

When you were cleaning things up, could it be that you had turned this switch upside down?

On the Hum. I believe the float itself should be in line with the switch body with an empty pan. If, with the pan empty, the float is hanging down, you have it in upside down.

And Good Luck.

[kpaul]

The water detection cables are a better use than the lt300 water sensors or the black disc type. Little more costly but you can cover the whole unit.
so you won't miss a leak!:cool: