View Full Version : Shop boiler pics
Conrad_Turbo
01-30-2008, 01:03 PM
I had a boiler installed in my garage to replace an Allied Engineering 50k BTU that had the heat exchanger split on it. The old setup was a terrible DIY setup (how I bought the house/garage) which ultimately contributed to the heat exhanger splitting.
The install isn't complete yet, the list I've been told by the installer is:
- R/W thermostat wire has to be extended and secured
- PRV will have a 90 deg bend and plumbed within 4" of the floor into a container
- drain on the boiler will be rerouted (due to the expansion tank being in the way)
- B-vent will have a strap supporting it at the first elbow leaving the boiler
- 120v line on the wall behind boiler will be "stapled" to the wall
What do you guys think of the install so far?
http://www.aceengineering.ca/Temp/boil2.jpg
http://www.aceengineering.ca/Temp/boil1.jpg
http://www.aceengineering.ca/Temp/boil3.jpg
Anything I should talk to the installer about?
Ask him where he got his license............and try not to laugh.
d_griff
01-30-2008, 09:32 PM
I thought you couldnt have an elbow 6 inches form a air scoop??
Correct me someone
d_griff
01-30-2008, 09:36 PM
Now all you need is some baseboard or radiators :p:D
No really i dont see the pipes leaving, Do they go into the wall behind the boiler???
awsomeears
01-31-2008, 12:03 AM
Your pressure relief valve has no 90 on it, that should continue to the floor with coper, ruffly 6" from the floor is the norm around here.
craig1
01-31-2008, 12:14 AM
I thought you couldnt have an elbow 6 inches form a air scoop??
Correct me someone
looks like the elbows are on the outlet of the air scoop. that should be fine
looks like its connected to a radiant floor below the boiler. there should be a low water cut off in case of a leak, especially since it looks like it is a manual fill system.
Conrad_Turbo
01-31-2008, 10:37 AM
Your pressure relief valve has no 90 on it, that should continue to the floor with coper, ruffly 6" from the floor is the norm around here.
Ya that was one of the things I have been told will be put on, it's in the first post.
craig1, you're right the air scoop is on the outlet of the boiler. There are two hoses that connect the boiler to the floor. I will mention the need for a low water cut off, there is no city water supply tied to the boiler (since it's in the garage there is no water line), it does have a hose connection that allows for filling and flushing of the system (right below the air scoop and above the expansion tank).
tg, that doesn't help me know what's wrong with it. Let me know so I can mention it! :D
dakotakid
01-31-2008, 10:07 PM
Gas line should have a shut off valve installed in it.
Conrad_Turbo
01-31-2008, 11:56 PM
Gas line should have a shut off valve installed in it.
Where the yellow flexible gas line connects to the 90 degree fitting against the wall, there is a shut off valve about 4' up. I just took a bad angle/photos. :D
slimwoodie
02-03-2008, 07:38 PM
whats with all the gate valces ..
this is heating, not plumming
scottsacavsfan
02-03-2008, 07:43 PM
It looks like that room is a concrete box?
Is there a combustion air intake anywhere?
Conrad_Turbo
02-03-2008, 10:33 PM
whats with all the gate valces ..
this is heating, not plumming
Apparantly the boiler manual states there should be a gate valve on the inlet and outlet of the boiler. The ball valves are for the bypass and main line in the floor, they offer adjustment to ensure a minimum water temperature into the boiler. Does it look wrong?
scottsacavsfan, deceiving picture...the area photographed is in the corner of a 26'x30' garage, the inside walls are skinned with plywall and painted...and very dirty. Haha.
Cast Iron
02-04-2008, 08:53 PM
Ummmm forgive me for askin but whats with the FB-38 water feeder? Has a drain on it? Wheres the water supply?
Conrad_Turbo
02-04-2008, 09:48 PM
Ummmm forgive me for askin but whats with the FB-38 water feeder? Has a drain on it? Wheres the water supply?
There is no water supply in the garage, so running a garden hose to the feeder (with a female-female garden hose adapter) will allow the system to be topped up or flushed. How would most garages without a water supply get filled?
powerhead
02-05-2008, 04:18 PM
Can you get a close up of the flue pipe?
Especially that 45(?) near the ceiling.
simpleman
02-05-2008, 07:21 PM
Does not look bad to me at all.I like the guages on the return and after the
bypass thats the way it should be done.
Other then the water feeder which I see no need for on a manual feed system
it a nice job.
You did say it not finish yet.
Cast Iron
02-06-2008, 07:00 AM
There is no water supply in the garage, so running a garden hose to the feeder (with a female-female garden hose adapter) will allow the system to be topped up or flushed. How would most garages without a water supply get filled?
I asked because you didnt say it was a man fed system with no water access in the garage. Heck for all I new, it was an attached garage with the possibility of getting a water line from inside the house.
hvac_superman
02-06-2008, 07:17 AM
I see black, galvanized, copper and brass all mixed together in no particular order. Looks like an electrolysis nightmare. IMO
craig1
02-06-2008, 07:30 AM
many boiler systems mix black and copper pipe with no electrolysis issues. its just not a problem like it is on domestic water piping, as long as theres no leaks resulting in excessive make up water.
hvac_superman
02-06-2008, 08:32 AM
many boiler systems mix black and copper pipe with no electrolysis issues. its just not a problem like it is on domestic water piping, as long as theres no leaks resulting in excessive make up water.
It's just poor piping practice to combine anodic metals with cathodic metals and thats a fact. Galvanized to copper is getting pretty bad.
millerman
02-06-2008, 09:57 AM
Air scoops suck in my opinion. I have gone to Spirovents by Spirotherm or Honeywells supervent. Manufacturers want the boiler to be able to be isolated by valves. I can't imagine they would spec gate valves. Ball valves should be used. Again this is my opinion.
absolute air
02-06-2008, 01:32 PM
Is that a press of some sort standing next to the boiler ? Looks like a cool toy. I don't know much about boilers, but the mix matching of piping would concern me as well.
gasoilair
02-06-2008, 02:12 PM
The valves look like the kind carried at home depot. Considering the crazy mix of parts, I would assume all the installation materials came from there also. Why the hell would anyone stand in a real supply house and order black nipples and galvanized elbows and bushings? Why not get a 1"npt male X 3/4"sweat adapter and forget the leak prone bushings? Because HD doesn't carry them.. Any self respecting fitter would NEVER use a bushing unless backed into a corner anyhow.
I agree on the water feeder. Forget the feeder and just tee in a drain valve after the last shutoff on the return so the air gets purged out of the boiler.
Scoops are all old school, spiravents are worth the extra cost and do a better job anyway.
This guy needs to learn how to pipe a drip leg too.
I don't know if I would want a nat. draft standing pilot anything installed in a garage, not to mention it's illegal in CT. If you get to spraying some sort of flammable cleaner or spill some gas on the floor, and the vapors drift over to that pilot, well, you know the rest.
It'll probably work fine and heat the floor, but it's just a bad looking install with quite a few faults that will shorten it's lifespan.
sirjames
02-07-2008, 08:55 PM
Is that a press of some sort standing next to the boiler ? Looks like a cool toy. I don't know much about boilers, but the mix matching of piping would concern me as well.
Never had a problem with corrosion on old mixed piping.
Once the water has been purged of oxygen and has run through a few heating cycles it basically becomes neutral.
Have taken out plenty of old boilers where there were no signs of corrosion even after more than 50 years.
sirjames
02-07-2008, 09:02 PM
No source for water except a garden hose you should have some sort of low water cut off,especially with all the radiation below the boiler.
You spring a leak underground that boiler won`t know it`s out of water until it melts.
millerman
02-08-2008, 09:29 AM
Never had a problem with corrosion on old mixed piping.
Once the water has been purged of oxygen and has run through a few heating cycles it basically becomes neutral.
Have taken out plenty of old boilers where there were no signs of corrosion even after more than 50 years.
I too have removed countless old boiler systems that are plumbed in black pipe with no corrosion visible however, practically every single make up water line I've seen in galvanized pipe are completely plugged. I imagine this is due to no circulation. It is silly and ugly to plumb a system as this individual has done. The sweat joints look nice, copper looks sweet and then he throws galvanized fittings on it. My opinion of course, some nice dielectric unions to copper would have been nicer.
yakerhvac
02-12-2008, 07:29 PM
:mad: Please get this off "The wall of Pride" this Very BAD
scottsacavsfan
02-21-2008, 08:37 PM
:mad: Please get this off "The wall of Pride" this Very BAD
Dear membership committee,
Do we really need another one of these:rolleyes:?
Frostie
02-21-2008, 11:44 PM
I am not sure about the codes where you live, but here this installation would fail the permit process for these reasons
1) street 90 coming out of tee on gas inlet - illegal here
2) no LWC on manual feed system
3) unit is not raised off the ground 32" in a garage
4) not sure about the wire going to the vent damper, but it probably should be terminated into a box with an anti short.
Things about the installation that would not cause it to fail inspection but are not professional - mixing of piping materials, use of bushings, use of a union after the flexable connector which has 2 unions...
dutchcool
02-24-2008, 05:48 PM
I like the plain sets, without the panels i mean.
It gives it a machine look ( and it is a machine right ) , nice !
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