water in air conditioner overflow pan

[iowaguy]

What could cause water to be in the pan that sits under the condenser unit? I still see some dripping from the condenser line that comes out of the house side-wall, so there shouldn't be water in the overflow pan, right?

Thanks.

[Kmacdaddy]

you still could have a restriction in the condensation line or a frozen coil mayby a cracked drain pan check bigger copper line for ice may need a service tech

[iowaguy]

Another thing I noticed is that there are times that water drips from the ceiling's air conditioner vents. Could that be related?

Oddly it seems to be doing a fine job of cooling the house still.

[hvacrmedic]

Another thing I noticed is that there are times that water drips from the ceiling's air conditioner vents. Could that be related?

Oddly it seems to be doing a fine job of cooling the house still.

Have it serviced. The primary pan may be cracked, the evaporator coil could be freezing up, or the primary drain may be restricted.

Also, the pan is under the evaporator coil. The condenser is the unit that sits outside. The line that has water dripping out is a condensate line.

[Kevin O'Neill]

Another thing I noticed is that there are times that water drips from the ceiling's air conditioner vents. Could that be related?

Oddly it seems to be doing a fine job of cooling the house still.

Water coming from the registers can be caused by several things.

If the humidity in the room is extremely high, the register can sweat. I once had a customer who left her French door cracked open to bring in "Fresh Air" while running her air conditioning. The registers in that room sweated all summer.

If the duct going to the register has a closed damper it can cause the register to sweat because the air velocity at the registert face is too low.

If the register boot ceiling penetration is not sealed, humid attic air can mix with cool supply air just behind the register, causing condensation.

If the air velocity is too high at the indoor coil, water can be blown off the coil into the duct, only to drain out at a register.

Hope this helps.

[Kmacdaddy]

Have it serviced. The primary pan may be cracked, the evaporator coil could be freezing up, or the primary drain may be restricted.

Also, the pan is under the evaporator coil. The condenser is the unit that sits outside. The line that with water dripping out is a condensate line.

WOW i didn't read that thoroughly did i

[AtticAce]

The water in the drain pan under your blower coil (inside unit) could be caused by a frozen coil, or if the blower coil is very old, the metal drain pan could be rusted through, newer units have plastic pans.

Did your registers sweat in the past? I would check the filter if you haven't yet. Also check to make sure all of your supply registers are open, if you close too many you will cause insufficient airflow over the evaporator coil, this will slow the air flow over the evaporator coil, which will lower the air temperature in the duct system. In plain English, this can cause the registers to sweat.

This sweating of the registers due to low air velocity can cause the ducting in the attic to sweat, this in not good as it can cause mold growth.

[iowaguy]

Also, the pan is under the evaporator coil. The condenser is the unit that sits outside. The line that with water dripping out is a condensate line.
Thank you very much for help with terminology. Now I won't sound as much like an idiot when I call for service tomorrow.

[iowaguy]

Did your registers sweat in the past? I would check the filter if you haven't yet. Also check to make sure all of your supply registers are open, if you close too many you will cause insufficient airflow over the evaporator coil, this will slow the air flow over the evaporator coil, which will lower the air temperature in the duct system. In plain English, this can cause the registers to sweat.

This sweating of the registers due to low air velocity can cause the ducting in the attic to sweat, this in not good as it can cause mold growth.


The registers did not sweat in the past. Last year a new evaporator coil was installed and some of the duct work was replaced.

One thing I noticed is that the registers that sweat the most are the ones that have the higher velocity air coming out of them.

How would a frozen evaporator coil cause water/condensate to be in the 'secondary' drain pan?

Thanks.

[Mr. Thermo]

If your Evap is freezing up or it may be a restriction in your drain pan , and also I'm not really understanding if you said that water is coming out of your suction line or your condensate line coming off of your evap.

[iowaguy]

If your Evap is freezing up or it may be a restriction in your drain pan , and also I'm not really understanding if you said that water is coming out of your suction line or your condensate line coming off of your evap.

What is the "suction line" ?

Is that the line that comes from the auxillary drain pan?

[smokin68]

If you have water in the secondary drainpan you need a service call.Have them install a float switch in your secondary drainline opening...it will shut the unit down when there's a problem. Ducts sweating means hot air is meeting cold metal or vice versa....they're not sealed well.Are they the newly installed ducts?

[allstar08]

If the secondary pan is fullof H2o for sure call for service. If you had a new coil installed they may not have put in a horizontal deflector to keep water blowing off of the coil in the coil drain pan.

[iowaguy]

Ducts sweating means hot air is meeting cold metal or vice versa....they're not sealed well.Are they the newly installed ducts?

The duct work that is 'sweating' was replaced last year. The previous duct was done in the late 60 ( it was a flexible duct) and the inner lining was a cloth-like material (that was absorbent). The new duct work is flexible as well but the inner lining is a more smooth plastic (like: http://www.atcoflex.com/assets/images/indeximage.gif)

Is there a possibility that they are sealed well but that they don't have enough insulation? They are rated R6.

[iowaguy]

The contract installed a "U"-trap on the evaporator condensate line. Is that proper?

[Kevin O'Neill]

The duct work that is 'sweating' was replaced last year. The previous duct was done in the late 60 ( it was a flexible duct) and the inner lining was a cloth-like material (that was absorbent). The new duct work is flexible as well but the inner lining is a more smooth plastic (like: http://www.atcoflex.com/assets/images/indeximage.gif)

Is there a possibility that they are sealed well but that they don't have enough insulation? They are rated R6.

Sweating ducts? Check this link to an article in Contracting Business on sweating ducts. (It is easier for me than retyping the whole thing.)

http://www.contractingbusiness.com/25/Issue/Article/False/46151/Issue

[iowaguy]

Should there be a "P" trap in the condensate line. I mistakenly called it a "U" trap in a previous post--sorry.

[allstar08]

Sure it is never a bad idea unless there is already one on.

[iowaguy]

What is the P trap preventing from from backing up?

[Sam-the-man]

prevents air from being drawn back up the drain line, which would keep the unit from draining.

[wilson hembrey]

The A/C drain clogged up and got the furnace wet. The blower motor will not shut off. What could be the problem?

[Roadhouse]

1.) Air handlers ( electric in heating and consist of both the evap coil and the blower in one unit) use p traps due to negative pressure on the condensate (water) drain line coming from the primary (main) drain at the coil.

2.) The suction line is the bigger of the two copper lines, sucking the gas from the evaporator back to the consensing unit outside and will be insulated. The smaller of the two copper lines or the high side (both will be run side by side from the outside condensing unit to the inside evaporator coil so not hard to distinguish) shoots the liquid freon up to the evap which is when the freon turns into a gas and is therefore 'sucked' back outside in the suction line to be turned into a liquid and back and forth we go. Easy money.

3.) Your main drain is clogged. You should have an auxilary ( secondary) condensate drain line that if you have water dripping from it you know your primary is clogged, even if just partially and needs to be cleared.

4.) Not just one float switch but two (2) need be installed, one in the drain pan ( drain pan is in case your main drain line gets clogged, such as the problem you have now, and leads the dripping from your evap coil water into pan water for draining through your secondary line but if that, secondary, gets clogged as well then the water will oveflow from the pan and then you can have problems so a float switch for the pan to protect the secondary issues and one 'in line' on the main drain line to first let you know you have problems.

Wired in series to shut off the condensor so if you have any drain problems be it primary or auxilary your condensnor will shut off and with that you will not be able to accumulate more water. Your system will blow but not cold and you know you have a problem and a tech needs to be called.

5.) Humidity problems at your register. Cool and warmer air rapidly meeting, just like for the evap causing condensate or drain water.


Call a tech.