View Full Version : Burnham Boiler Repair Question
qwertyu
04-27-2007, 09:45 PM
Old V33 hot water boiler front plates are seeping and gasket needs to be replaced. Oil company said just replace the unit, bolts look like they're not worth tackling.
I'd like to give it a try. Any words of advice on how to remove them without shearing?
Photo here:
http://users.rcn.com/ben02466/P4277085.JPG
karsthuntr
04-27-2007, 10:09 PM
Best bet, replace the boiler. They gave you great advice. IMHO
d_griff
04-27-2007, 10:24 PM
Old V33 hot water boiler front plates are seeping and gasket needs to be replaced. Oil company said just replace the unit, bolts look like they're not worth tackling.
I'd like to give it a try. Any words of advice on how to remove them without shearing?
Photo here:
http://users.rcn.com/ben02466/P4277085.JPG
try it when its hot,a ton of WD..break them then drain your boiler..might need a breaker bar behind your wrench,most likely by looking at them your gonna break at least one..maybe youll get lucky,.if you shear one your replacing it anyway so why not give it a shot first before just replaceing it,if you get lucky and lossen them,use anti-seaize when putting new ones on,they will be real easy to get off next time,that goes for anything in the future
tinknocker service tech
04-28-2007, 07:27 AM
imo you were given good advise replace the boiler
thos bolts look like they are rusted in quite well and chances are you will shear off more then one.
been there done that.
beenthere
04-28-2007, 09:24 AM
You won't need a beaker bar.
Those bolts will snap easily.
Its not practical for a company to try and replace that gasket.
If you have 2 or 3 days to screw with it, trying to drill out the snapped bolts this summer fine.
Why do you really want to spen money on that old fuel guzzler. Do you like paying high fuel bills.
Replacing it makes better sense then repairing it.
d_griff
04-28-2007, 12:07 PM
im not disagreeing with anyone.of course he is better off replaceing it..
but..
his post isnt asking for advice,he is asking about advice on trying to remove them,he said he wants to give it a try..
so i say,be prepared to replace it before trying,and who knows,you may have some luck and get another year or so out of it.
qwertyu
04-28-2007, 07:09 PM
It's been suggested that instead of removing the bolts that I drain the boiler some and, with proper preparation, use a product called "JB Weld" and cover the leaky gasket area. It's a patch for sure, might it work?
Using penetrating oil for a week, tapping the bolts from time to time, and gentle use of an impact wrench makes a lot of sense.
I'm wondering also that since this started to leak when the system was turned off seasonally, if it might fix itself if the gasket expands again when it's turned on in nine months. It would be terrible if the gasket just let go when we need it the most.
Never thought I'd be pondering on such a problem, but the system has worked so well there's a real comfort in keeping it going. Appreciate the assistance.
gibrenob
04-28-2007, 08:21 PM
I kept my Burnham going for the last three years of it's life with J.B. Weld around the tankless coil plate. This was before I got in the trade, and was relying on my oil company to service this boiler - what a mess. They never took the top off and cleaned anything. Just nozzle and filter for years, even though I questioned loss of pressure and water seeping out the bottom.
http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/7827/p1010112ne5.jpg
beenthere
04-29-2007, 07:29 AM
his post isnt asking for advice,he is asking about advice on trying to remove them,he said he wants to give it a try..
so i say,be prepared to replace it before trying,and who knows,you may have some luck and get another year or so out of it.
The job of a service tech is not to keep old equipment running past its reliable life span.
Sometimes its hard to know when to repair and when to replace.
As trivial as this gasket may sound, its time to replace this old boiler.
d_griff
04-29-2007, 11:17 AM
The job of a service tech is not to keep old equipment running past its reliable life span.
Sometimes its hard to know when to repair and when to replace.
As trivial as this gasket may sound, its time to replace this old boiler.
The job of a service tech is not to keep old equipment running past its reliable life span????????
Okay.....what do we do then????
IMO.we do EXACTLY that..
My job,is to "service" the equip until a repair becomes so expensive it outways the cost and effieciency of repairing or replaceing the equipment? if you condemn everything when the repair gets tough,your a salesman and your NOT a service tech..
beenthere
04-29-2007, 11:38 AM
As simple as a repair may seam on old equipment some times.
It doesn't justify keeping a fuel hog running.
30 plus year old cast iron boilers may look ok except for a leaking gasket.
6 monthes later, another thing comes up, and now the HO has to justify teh earlier repair cost by paying for another repair.
now the HO has paided 1/2 or better of the cost of a new boiler, but still isn't saving any money.
Are you driving a 30 year old service van?
Just because we can keep a piece of equipment running, doesn't mean we should.
I still service alot of jubulee's. They should all be replaced, but alot of home owners don't have, or want to spend the money to do so. So we keep them running until they die. Then they have no choice, and have to struggle to come up with the money.
By the way, ALL service techs are salesman.
You sold your company on your abilities for them to hire you.
When your doing a repair, your selling your companies continued services by your ability to dianose, and repair the customers equipment.
The hardest part of a service techs job, is knowing when its better to replace then repair.
Theres a thread in pro biz about it, you may want to read.
whitewhite
04-29-2007, 04:00 PM
Honestly if it was my personal boiler, I'd keep it cleen and keeep running it.
I dont know your metal skills, Use the breaker bar, snap the bolts off.
Use an angle grinder to clean the gasket surface area up real good. Drill and tap new holes. Done. For me I'd say the entire repair might take 2-3 hrs.
But thats because Iam cheap. The price of a new boiler can buy alot of fuel.
d_griff
04-29-2007, 04:14 PM
By the way, ALL service techs are salesman.
You sold your company on your abilities for them to hire you.
When your doing a repair, your selling your companies continued services by your ability to dianose, and repair the customers equipment.
The hardest part of a service techs job, is knowing when its better to replace then repair.
Theres a thread in pro biz about it, you may want to read.
im not a salesman,when im repaireing equipment,my ability to do so sells itself,
again it goes back to the beginning of the point of this thread and its not worth arguing over,i said before,of course he is better off replacing it,and by now im sure he sees it that way,but he was asking for advice on repairing it,so i gave some..
Roscoe
04-29-2007, 04:20 PM
Old V33 hot water boiler front plates are seeping and gasket needs to be replaced. Oil company said just replace the unit, bolts look like they're not worth tackling.
I'd like to give it a try. Any words of advice on how to remove them without shearing?
Photo here:
http://users.rcn.com/ben02466/P4277085.JPG
You are joking right? ..............:eek:
qwertyu
05-04-2007, 08:10 AM
Have been spraying penetrating oil on the bolts for a few days. Will be attacking it gently with a pneumatic impact tool next week and hoping for the best.
I'm not sure the fuel savings would be significant by replacing the boiler. It was upgraded with a new burner and controls three years ago. Fuel consumption has been excellent compared to neighbors similar houses, and I think the oil company's done a pretty good job maintaining it and cleanouts have always been meticulous.
As someone posted about keeping an old truck going, we have a 1922 and 1988 Ford (T and Taurus) and a 2000 Toyota, all of which will useless before we dump them. And our house is 1870's - we won't dump that. I could mention some things I'd like to dump though, but won't.
I'll post a photo of the outcome.
d_griff
05-04-2007, 05:40 PM
Have been spraying penetrating oil on the bolts for a few days. Will be attacking it gently with a pneumatic impact tool next week and hoping for the best.
I'm not sure the fuel savings would be significant by replacing the boiler. It was upgraded with a new burner and controls three years ago. Fuel consumption has been excellent compared to neighbors similar houses, and I think the oil company's done a pretty good job maintaining it and cleanouts have always been meticulous.
As someone posted about keeping an old truck going, we have a 1922 and 1988 Ford (T and Taurus) and a 2000 Toyota, all of which will useless before we dump them. And our house is 1870's - we won't dump that. I could mention some things I'd like to dump though, but won't.
I'll post a photo of the outcome.
its not the burner or the controls that save you gas,although they help,its the design of the boiler,these engineers are getting pretty good,that majority of your heat goes out of the chimney only passing the exchanger once,you probable lose 50% of your heat through the chimney,thats why its probable 50% effiecent versus a new 80 or 90% furnace,you would see a difference
good luck let us know your progress,an impact wrench might not be a good way to start,you might rip them right off,you should start by putting a wrench on them and tapping the wrench little by little to free them first,once you get them moving,use your impact wrench..thats the way to go IMO
Roscoe
05-06-2007, 07:36 AM
Ok you had enough time how bad did you eff it up, and what boiler are you going to replace it with. :eek:
qwertyu
05-18-2007, 08:15 AM
Well, it's been a few weeks now and much Liquid Wrench later the bolts won't budge.
Tried using a rubber mallet on the end of the socket wrench handle to knock things around a bit. Will try the impact wrench later - have lots of time to treat this gently.
d_griff
05-18-2007, 08:20 AM
Well, it's been a few weeks now and much Liquid Wrench later the bolts won't budge.
Tried using a rubber mallet on the end of the socket wrench handle to knock things around a bit. Will try the impact wrench later - have lots of time to treat this gently.
just go for it:D
Roscoe
05-18-2007, 09:12 AM
Well, it's been a few weeks now and much Liquid Wrench later the bolts won't budge.
Tried using a rubber mallet on the end of the socket wrench handle to knock things around a bit. Will try the impact wrench later - have lots of time to treat this gently.
ya got that confused with a women dude, are you going to serenade it too..:D
got no life huh............:p
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