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eporter
04-25-2007, 12:00 AM
I am looking to finish my basement, but the refrigeration lines were run on the bottom of the ceiling joists. My question: is it feasible to have the lines rerun, so they are in between the joists so I can drywall the ceiling? I was assuming it was reasonable, and would only require the system to be discharged, the lines cut, a couple holes be cut in the joists, and then a length of copper tubing being spliced in. So is this reasonable?

Thanks,
Eric

iwannahelp
04-25-2007, 08:25 AM
Well anything is possible, so it can definitely be done for you. Just make sure you hire a competent company who will thoroughly insulate the larger copper pipe to prevent water from dripping on your new ceiling. Also they should know how to properly evacuate and then adjust refrigerant charge (if needed) due to extra coppper piping being installed. As far as price it is hard to say since I can't see the job and prices vary from region to region but I would guess between XXXX and XXXX bucks.

bluestone
04-25-2007, 08:48 AM
Why not just strap the ceiling. Furring strips probably a lot cheaper than rerouting

t527ed
04-25-2007, 09:12 AM
put a drop ceiling in.


sucks to have to open up a sheetrock ceiling to run new lines or get to stuff for upstairs rooms.

eporter
04-25-2007, 10:05 AM
Thank you for the reply, I now feel more comfortable talking with companies about what I want to do. It is a brand new house with two new units, so I want to make sure that I get someone who knows what they are doing because I don't want any thing to damage the units.

As far as the insulation is concerned, I think the company that did the initial install did a good job. The one copper pipe is completely covered in thick foam insulation and I haven't seen the slightest condensation on it.

I am going to ask some friends who have lived in this area awhile for recommendations on a HVAC company. Does it make sense to call the builder and ask who he had install the system in the first place so I could see if they could reroute the lines? The reason I am hesitant to do that is that it seems like they took the quick and lazy way out by not routing the lines between the ceiling joists in the first place. Do you agree? Again, I want someone well qualified to do the work, because I don't want to risk damage to the units.

Eric

HeyBob
04-25-2007, 10:18 AM
I suggest that you call a licensed contractor or contractors in your area and get several bids. Pricing will vary from region to region, site rules forbid pricing in this forum.

eporter
04-25-2007, 10:20 AM
bluestone/t527ed,
I considered both putting furring strips on the ceiling, or using a drop in ceiling, but the unfinished height is only 8' 1 1/2", and I want to try my best to maintain a finished ceiling height at about 8'. I plan on using half the basement for a rec. room, and the other half for my shop area. So the contractor is going to install the drywall on the ceiling with metal resilient channel to reduce sound traveling upstairs. With the metal channel and 5/8" drywall it will eat up much of the 1 1/2" available.

All,
What is the general recommendation on closing the ceiling with drywall? I know it will be a pain if there are any changes necessary in the future, but what are the chances of that?

The contractor I spoke with about doing the finish framing and drywall recommended having a qualified HVAC technician reroute the lines rather than him doing it because he didn't have the equipment to evacuate the system. He is also going to build a closet around the part of the system that is installed in the basement.

Thanks,
Eric

eporter
04-25-2007, 10:26 AM
HeyBob,
First, I apologize for breaking the forum rules. The way I read the rule, I thought it would be okay to get a ballpark estimate, but I will refrain from discussing pricing at all from now on. Thanks for editing my previous posts.

I am in the process of deciding which companies to speak with about estimates now. I guess that will be the best way to get an estimate of the cost in my area.

Thanks,
Eric

greg blackmore
04-25-2007, 11:57 AM
QUOTE :
[What is the general recommendation on closing the ceiling with drywall? I know it will be a pain if there are any changes necessary in the future, but what are the chances of that?]

Changes in the future depends on your planning now. Service in the future depends on the installation and maintenance requirements as your home ages. Are there any plumbing traps, cable/telephone/computer/electrical junction boxes in the spaces? Newer homes usually should not have elec junction boxes unless there is a device wired in, but you should check to be sure. It is not only against code to cover elec junction boxes its dangerous. You may want to consider digital photos with measurements of anything in the space,or dont be shocked in the future when the contractor does exploratory surgery on your finished ceiling. I dont know your layout, but consider putting shop near mechanical area with unfinished ceiling (joist spaces can be a good place for shop storage and clearance for maneuvering long pieces) for access to mech sys and just drywall the rec area.
JMO Greg

eporter
04-25-2007, 12:34 PM
Greg,
Thanks for the great advice. I completely agree with you on the fact of changes being dependent on my planning now. Therefore, I am trying my best to plan well now. I had already planned on taking lots of digital pics to map out all the plumbing, ducting, and electrical, but I hadn't thought about measuring everything.

I was originally planning on leaving my shop ceiling unfinished, but the first time I ran some of my woodworking equipment my wife had a fit about how loud it was up in the kitchen and living room.

There are no plumbing traps or junction boxes. I also had the contractor run a 100amp subpanel to the basement for my shop which will be mounted in the wall as usual. I don't forsee needing to open the ceiling back up unless there is a problem in the future.

Eric

greg blackmore
04-25-2007, 01:02 PM
Eric,

I can relate with the wife not dealing with the noise. Something to consider using, along with the "RC" channel, is an insulation called "RockWool" that goes inbetween the joists. Regular insul. works but "RockWool" is best. I had to even add an extra layer of drywall to get the noise to an acceptable level.
I swear she could hear a moth pi$$ on a cottonball. Just food for thought since your still in the constr stage. Its a drag doing it after the fact.

Greg

t527ed
04-25-2007, 01:54 PM
bluestone/t527ed,
I considered both putting furring strips on the ceiling, or using a drop in ceiling, but the unfinished height is only 8' 1 1/2", and I want to try my best to maintain a finished ceiling height at about 8'. I plan on using half the basement for a rec. room, and the other half for my shop area. So the contractor is going to install the drywall on the ceiling with metal resilient channel to reduce sound traveling upstairs. With the metal channel and 5/8" drywall it will eat up much of the 1 1/2" available.

All,
What is the general recommendation on closing the ceiling with drywall? I know it will be a pain if there are any changes necessary in the future, but what are the chances of that?

The contractor I spoke with about doing the finish framing and drywall recommended having a qualified HVAC technician reroute the lines rather than him doing it because he didn't have the equipment to evacuate the system. He is also going to build a closet around the part of the system that is installed in the basement.

Thanks,
Eric


i can put a drop ceiling in and lose less than 2" ceiling height.:cool:


make life SOOOO much easier down the road.:D

eporter
04-25-2007, 02:49 PM
Greg,
Thanks for the support. Someone else suggested I use "Rockwool" is it available at HD or Lowe's? I was just curious about the cost versus regular insulation.

t527ed,
The whole reason that I had originally considered the drop ceiling was for access in the future. However, I think I would get off cheaper with better sound blocking by using the RC and sheetrock.

You mention that it will make life so much easier down the road but the only reason that I can possibly imagine needing to access it in the future is if a problem arises. Is there something I am missing? I have had many, many friends who have lived in their houses for years with basements finished with sheetrock ceiling and they have never had need to cut them open. I am planning on running extra cat5, stereo, phone, electric through the ceiling just in case I need it in the future, and I will have an access panel to get to it.

Eric

greg blackmore
04-25-2007, 03:40 PM
Eric,

A friend that has a drywall business,used it for his sound studio,and got me contractors price a long time ago. I just called Blowes/HomeChepo and they said "huh? uh duh we sell owens corning sir" Best bet would be to check with a soundproofing/home theater/insulation co etc.Its definitely more expensive but in my case I had to have it. Sorry, cant help much beyond that.

Greg

eporter
04-25-2007, 08:54 PM
Shameless bump for the evening crowd