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View Full Version : Duct Mods necessary ? - Which contractor to believe



jc-etech
01-28-2007, 07:45 PM
Hi all,
First off....warning long post!!!!

The bottom line question is whether to have the initial duct trunk sections modified to eliminate a restriction from the plenum to the ductwork. One contractor thinks it is necessary, others don't.
Second question is whether to use a 3 ton blower drive or a 5 ton blower drive.

Thanks in advance for all replies......JC

Continue reading for background info:

Having original 20 year old Bryant NG furnace & A/C replaced on our 2850 sq. ft. 2 story home in SW Ohio.
Original system is 120K Input furnace (75% eff ??) /42K (3.5t) AC (8 SEER ??) which still works, but I recently noticed heavy rust on/around tube headers at A-coil, so I know the A-coil is on death row (so to speak) and will only be a matter of time before a leak develops. 20 years old, builders grade system, I think I got my money's worth!

Had contractors in (6) and told them all the same thing:
1) matched 16 SEER system with 2 stage Copeland Scroll.
2) 95% eff furnace with V/S blower system
3) Existing system works GENERALLY okay, but 2nd story bedrooms are always slightly warm in summer, as we have resorted to ceiling fans and portable fans to assist.
4) Must do load calc and submit summary sheet along with quote.
5) Would REALLY like to cash in on the $300 A/C tax credit,
$150 furnace credit, and the $50 advanced math blower credit. Not however to the point of wasting money to get it, either now in the purchase price, or in the future in the form of energy costs from mismatching.

I have now narrowed the prospective pool down to 2, both quoting the same Lennox hardware:
XC16-036 outdoor unit
CX34-43C-6F cased A-coil with TXV
G61MPV-060-091 95% Eff. NG Furnace <-- Note 5 ton blower
Also:
Honeywell VisionPro IAQ stat w/outdoor & indoor remote sensors.
new filter rack, 20x20 filters
Adaptations of existing duct sys. to New Plenum as reqd.


Contractor #1- Believes duct mods are needed at plenum/ duct interface.

Contractor #2- While existing duct/plenum connections are not ideal, thinks that duct mods are overkill and that we would be wasting our money on something that we would never perceive as a real benefit.

Load calc info per Wrightsoft:
Cool Sens: 28K Latent: 5K Total: 33K at 95/75deg F.
Moisture grains: 34
Heating : 75K at -5/70 deg (Farenheit)
Airflow (cooling) 1319CFM

The Indoor equipment is down in the unfinished basement (which is only heated and cooled parasitically). The upflow furnace has the A-coil on top, return air is coming into the side of the blower cabinet, currently thru a 16x25x1 filter (3M, 1250 rated). All this sits roughly in the center of the house and has a pair of 14 X 8 metal ducts running lengthwise almost the entire 40ft of the long direction of the house, one duct forming the supply, the other the return. In addition to this, a single 6" round duct connects directly to the front of the plenum, 90degrees from the east and west 14 x 8 trunks mentioned before.
2/3rds of the upstairs takeoffs come off the east trunk, the downstairs takeoffs are somewhat more evenly distributed between east and west. The aforementioned 6" round coming direct off the plenum goes to a single register beside the front door. This area opens up to a 2 story atrium consisting of open stairs and open railing around the second floor balcony.
Returns are up near the ceiling in the interior wall of each room and they all seem to be drawing well. They use a metal-lined stud cavity/floor joist cavity as able to tie into the 14 x 8 return trunk. Supply registers are on the floor usually near windows on the outside walls. Most supply stacks are 5 x 12 going to the second floor. All ducts have manually adjustable dampers near the takeoff from the trunks. In addition most of the registers are adjustable.

In the summer, we will shut down most 1st floor registers and open up the 2nd floor ones. In winter, the opposite. We have never had a problem with insufficient heat, but in the summer as mentioned before, the upstairs never seems to be as cool as we would like. The system seems to blow a decent amount of air, and we wouldn't say it is clammy. Just warmer than we would like.

The changes proposed by contractor #1 involve enlarging the 1st 5 feet or so of the trunks with larger ducts (if memory serves me, 14 x 12 or so), where the ducts take-off from the plenums, as well as catching a few of the initial branch takeoffs . This would reduce the restriction that may be present at the plenum/trunk interface, thereby allowing the system to move a higher volume of air ultimately to the second floor with less static pressure.

I have tried to reconcile this in my mind and did a quick calculation:
Assumptions:
3 ton X 400 cfm/ton = 1200 cfm as an example from blower
If plenum is 19 x 19: 361 in^2 at 1200 cfm = velocity of 480fpm
Initial 6" round duct carries 110cfm at 550 fpm straight off of plenum, leaving 1200-110=1090 for the both trunks.
Each trunk must carry 1090/2= 545cfm.
If trunk is 14 x 8: 112 in^2 at 545cfm = velocity of 699fpm.
Therefore anything over 1200 cfm will result in greater than 699fpm at each trunk/plenum interface. This also incorrectly assumes that the two trunks can be balanced without incurring any loss of comfort in the upstairs (again, remember that 2/3rds of the second floor runs originate from the east trunk).
At this point, even though only one contractor recommended the duct changes, I am starting to believe they are appropriate.

I wholeheartedly concede that this is beyond my field of expertise (I design/program/debug special purpose automated machinery for a living), and I may be all wet with my numbers.

I expected more load calcs to be performed, but out of the 6, only 3 included them, and of these, only two did what I would have deemed acceptable. Forget about getting a full blown manual D!!
As you can see, I wasn't EVEN trying to cut corners.

Second question if you're still reading this :)
Both vendors quoted the 5 ton blower drive furnace, Model G61MPV-060-091. This is partly because of my quest to get the $150 tax credit for 95% efficiency. For some reason, Lennox doesn't make a 'G61MPV-036C-091'. The closest thing is the 'G61MPV-036C-090', which falls a couple tenths of a percentage point short of the magic 95% number.
Pro's for the 5 ton blower drive:
At the reduced speeds in this application, the wattage required by the motor will be well below the maximums it is capable of, thereby increased life expectancy. Since it is electronically commutated, the usual loss of efficiency doesn't seem to apply here.
Cons for the 5 ton blower drive:
At the lower cooling stage, the lowest setting for the blower is 870CFM on low cool. Since 2 tons of cooling X 400 CFM/ton = 800CFM, this would seem to be more airflow than ideal for dehumidification. Maybe this could be remedied by utilizing some way to drive the blower with a PWM signal as used by a Harmony II or CCB1 control. If I remember correctly, this allows the blower speed to be reduced to at least 50% High cool speed.

Pro's for the 3 ton blower drive:
More appropriate airflow settings are easily attainable without additional hardware for low cool. Also the ECM motor is less expensive should it need to be replaced.
Con's for the 3 ton blower drive:
Motor is being driven 'harder', and less headroom may be available if/when necessary to push air into second floor (not saying this is the correct way to go about this).

Again, if you're this far down, I thank you for your input!!

-JC

mdharris68
01-28-2007, 08:08 PM
Seriously, you seem to have a good grasp of this, find a duct calculator and figure out what size your ducts need to be. I think from the ductwork you described, they seem a little small on the takeoffs and I would change them. Get some feedback from the contractors' other customers and use that for a guide as well. Some guys don't take the ductwork part as seriously as they should, but with all of the vs equiptment it is even more important, IMO. Some will use a variable speed drive to try to make up for inadaquate ductwork. I would go with the 5 ton blower and manipulate it for your lower air flow needs if the minimum numbers are there. I would have to read up on that particular equiptment to figure if it would work properly, as I am sure your contractors have. MY 2 CENTS

jc-etech
01-28-2007, 08:34 PM
Thanks mdharris68 for your advice.

I have researched this quite a bit and even though I was making a case for it in my mind, I couldn't help but wonder since the other contractors totally dismissed it.

OTOH - I didn't get the load calc's from them either :(

-JC

BaldLoonie
01-28-2007, 08:35 PM
Your research overlooked one thing. DUAL FUEL!!!

You're in a prime area for that to be a big benefit. You won't save much with a high SEER A/C over 13 SEER but you will save going with a heat pump over straight cooling.

Watch on these tax credits that you not only get the SEER needed, but EER too. And with a heat pump, HSPF.

cem-bsee
01-28-2007, 08:52 PM
are you wanting a replacement of the system,
or
a replacement of the main unit?

it only costs a little more to go First Class.

if fluids can not flow properly, then they can not do whatever it is intended to be done.

how about the take-offs?
how about wye instead of tee?
how about ductwork sealing?
how about sealing around the boots?

jc-etech
01-28-2007, 08:53 PM
Thanks BaldLoonie,
I initially looked at specifying a heat pump/Dual Fuel, but my Dearest Wife has heard the complaints others have expressed about the perception of 'lack of heat' associated with a heat pump.

I do realize that some of this may have been attributed to bad designs where they were pushing too much airflow. The VS blower would no doubt help this but I still wonder if it would be an issue. I even posed the question to the contractors about the discharge temp of R-410 being higher than R-22 but they said that was more of a myth than anything.

The surprising thing to us was that we stand to save more in the summer than we could in winter. I'm sure this is due to the current relatively low price of NG in this area. We also currently set the t-stat at 68* in the winter.

I had thought initially going into this whole thing that we would save more in winter because of our currently inefficient furnace.

The final thing against this was the additional purchase price.

-JC

jc-etech
01-28-2007, 09:17 PM
cem-bsee,

Obviously the initial cost is an issue here, however we have realized that we will have forgotten the difference in price in a year or so providing we get the results we are looking for.

A couple of things we are looking at doing as well:
Currently, the insulation in the attic is only R-19 by my estimation. We will be taking steps to bump that up to the energy star recommended R-49.

Take-offs: Everyone seemed to think the branch take-offs seem to be resonable, once you got away from the initial plenum.

Wyes vs. Tees: I had never considered a large wye above the furnace into each trunk. When I d'loaded various examples of good/bad duct design (relating more to the branches more than the trunk), I noticed that some were recommending the big box trunk, ie same size all the way down, whereas others recommended stepping the sizes down to match the reductions in area as each branch removed a portion of the airflow.

I guess I've never seen a large 'Y' style plenum directly off the top of the A-coil case. My biggest concern that immediately comes to mind would be if I would have the headroom for this. The basement is probably 8 foot high and I know the existing trunk takeoffs are maybe a little too close to the top of the plenum from the ideal. Not sure if a wye would take more headroom or not.

Ductwork APPEARS to be sealed okay. I heard more than one of the contractors comment about the original installer and how they were know to do good work. I will however try to seal the upper plate/drywall connections in the attic a little better especially above the return cavities.

Boots: All hard metal connections here -- maybe I'm misunderstanding something though..... aren't boots unique to flex?

Thanks....JC

jc-etech
01-28-2007, 09:45 PM
Baldloonie wrote:
************
....... Watch on these tax credits that you not only get the SEER needed, but EER too. And with a heat pump, HSPF.
************

I noticed this gotcha as well!! The XC16-036 is not eligible for the $300 tax credit with any of the full blown furnaces, only air handlers (at least for my application as memory serves). In my application, I am getting the full 16 SEER but the EER is below the magic 12.5.

The kicker here is that based on the quotes I received, it was much more expensive to grab for the tax credit than what you could ever hope to recover from the additional purchase price. In addition to the two Lennox quotes that I'm considering, I have quotes from dealers of Bryant, Carrier, Nordyne (Westinghouse), Armstrong, and Airease, the first three would have met the tax credits but cost more $$$ in the long run. I don't remember about the last two but for other reasons they didn't make it to the finals.
-JC

dash
01-28-2007, 10:37 PM
Tax credit or total comfort the choice is yours!!!!Seriously don't focus too much on a tax credit versus comfort!!

jc-etech
01-31-2007, 08:57 PM
are you wanting a replacement of the system,
or
a replacement of the main unit?

it only costs a little more to go First Class.

if fluids can not flow properly, then they can not do whatever it is intended to be done.

how about the take-offs?
how about wye instead of tee?
how about ductwork sealing?
how about sealing around the boots?

To cem-bsee - The crow I'm eating isn't very tasty
I now know that the transitions from duct to register occurs at the 'boot'

As an update to this story - Contractor #3 has re-entered the picture with a Westinghouse system. I have directed him to get me all the manuals, efficiency certifications, and load calc info so that I can compare this to the Lennox systems.

I have also started calculating the pressure drops in the ductwork so that I can put the whole plenum take-off issue into perspective.

BaldLoonie
01-31-2007, 09:14 PM
We have sold a number of dual fuel systems. 2 "customers" in particular would have my hide if they weren't perfectly comfy. The dear Mrs. next door and our office manager. Both are very happy with dual fuel. Next door changes over at 30, the office manager's house changes over at 35. I know my neighbors saved a bundle replacing an 8 SEER A/C and 65% furnace to 10 SEER pump and 93% furnace. I looked over the bills, gas in some months was under 1/2 the previous year while the electric bills barely went up.

Nordyne/Frigidaire has a standard heat pump R410a with new coil that ARI rates to 15 SEER, 13 EER and 9.1 HSPF with a variable speed blower. That gets the heat pump tax credit and provides a very cheap to run system. Couple that with their 95% furnace and you pick up $150 for the furnace & $50 for the blower. I think the heat pump is $300. If the wifey still won't go pump, I know they can get 15 with the A/C and these coils and VS drive.

jc-etech
01-31-2007, 11:24 PM
I have been calculating the pressure drop across the ducts.

I took the farthest run to the upstairs and have noticed that
I come up with a velocity of 815fpm on a 6" round duct carrying 160CFM.

This violates one of the rules of thumb I have run across claiming you don't want to exceed 700fpm velocity in a duct. I know that this increases the pressure drop across that section of duct (and thru the transitions/fittings/boots etc as well).
In my case, if my calculations are correct, the pressure drop thru the system end-to-end using this worst case condition is 0.65"w.c.

I know that any increases in static pressure result in increased blower loading. I contend that as long as I stay under 0.8", while it isn't ideal relating to energy efficiency, motor longevity should still be okay.

If when the system is installed I end up over 0.8", I will then need to make reductions.

If anyone is interested, I can post the ductulator calculations, but I'm not (nor should I be) expecting a free duct calc.

-JC

steve3871m
01-31-2007, 11:43 PM
Hi all,
Had contractors in (6) and told them all the same thing:
Must do load calc and submit summary sheet along with quote.

This is where I stopped reading your post.
While the Manual J is the must, I would expect you to pay for my professional time to perfom one just for bidding purposes. This type of valuable information is not for free.

In my location MJ8 is performed only after acceptance and down payment.

Shophound
02-01-2007, 12:32 AM
I have been calculating the pressure drop across the ducts.

I took the farthest run to the upstairs and have noticed that
I come up with a velocity of 815fpm on a 6" round duct carrying 160CFM.

This violates one of the rules of thumb I have run across claiming you don't want to exceed 700fpm velocity in a duct. I know that this increases the pressure drop across that section of duct (and thru the transitions/fittings/boots etc as well).
In my case, if my calculations are correct, the pressure drop thru the system end-to-end using this worst case condition is 0.65"w.c.

I know that any increases in static pressure result in increased blower loading. I contend that as long as I stay under 0.8", while it isn't ideal relating to energy efficiency, motor longevity should still be okay.

If when the system is installed I end up over 0.8", I will then need to make reductions.

If anyone is interested, I can post the ductulator calculations, but I'm not (nor should I be) expecting a free duct calc.

-JC

You're only seeing part of the whole picture. Duct calcs have to take in many factors, beginning with design CFM for each room for heating and cooling, along with design room heat load for heating and cooling, concurrent with design heating and cooling capacity for entire structure. From that point you get into looking at the blower curves and calculating available static pressure from external static pressure after pressure losses other than duct length and fittings (which account for total effective length) are accounted for (coils external to air handler, supply and return grills, dampers, etc). Then comes your friction rate and blah blah etc. etc.

IOW, Manual D and Manual J, baby. :D

jc-etech
02-01-2007, 09:40 PM
This is where I stopped reading your post.
While the Manual J is the must, I would expect you to pay for my professional time to perfom one just for bidding purposes. This type of valuable information is not for free.

In my location MJ8 is performed only after acceptance and down payment.

OKAY- This touched a nerve...

I think I need to be in your profession!

The company I work for designs/builds/installs special purpose machinery. Usually a prospective customer comes to us with a task/part/process that requires a solution in the form of equipment that will do the job in the most resource efficient manner, which usually involves some measured degree of automation.

While it would be nice, most of the time, no off-the-shelf solution exists that will work completely.
Whenever quoting any job I must always balance the amount of up-front design work needed to fine-tune the quote against the very real possibility that I may not get the job. Even after doing this for 20 years, sometimes this can still be a tough pill too swallow.

It would be nice if in my profession that I could just run down to my one-stop-shop distributor, pick up machines A, B, & C; marry them together fire them up and collect my $200 after passing go, all in the span of 1 week!! IT AIN'T GONNA HAPPEN BABY.
Most of the time you might get A & C, then try to make B match up the best you can, (or design from scratch). Weeks or months later at the end of the project, the customer has purchased a solution to his problem.
Early on in my career, I remember when the 'Engineering' was more of a deliverable item. This is still very true in government work, but in the industry is is becoming less and less.
Anymore, like it or not, Engineering is strictly a cost of doing business to get the sale.

If I resorted to business the way you suggest, all of my customers would be at my competitors getting there machinery made by them, and I would be in perpetual pencil sharpening mode waiting for someone to hire 'Engineering'.

In my case, what I found out with my HVAC system is that none of the 6 contractors even made available a full-on Manual J/Manual D/Manual X,Y,Z after getting the job. One of the contractors (with 25 yrs experience) was even blown-away at my very basic initial napkin calculation of area, FPM, and CFM and said that I was already way beyond him, and that he just uses a slide calculator (ductulator) for those things, but had conveniently forgotten to bring it that day. Reading between the lines, in effect saying, I manipulate the calculator and do what it tells me even if I don't understand why or what it REALLY means.
This reminds me of when I was in school I remember one of our professors beating into us the importance of estimating the result of a calculation before we even touched the calculator. This way if you fat-fingered the decimal point you should realize it before you got 3/4 of the way thru the problem only to find that a quarter-watt resistor couldn't possibly carry the continuous 100 amps or so your calculations just now claimed.

At least in my case, unfortunately what I am finding out is that the age-old adage has once again proven true. If you want to make sure something is done right -- DOUBLE CHECK IT YOURSELF!!
I fully concede that my situation is unique, in that most people requesting your services don't have their own Mark's Engineering Handbook, nor would they be able to use it if they did.
While my expertise is not HVAC design, it IS broad enough to utilize the resources at my disposal to determine if I'm even in the right ballpark.
Even though at work I routinely quote (and RFQ) machinery/goods/services costing 10's of X the amount for my HVAC system, but this is MY OWN money and I'm going to make sure it is spent correctly for MY OWN comfort and efficiency, not by 'Bubba' taking a swag at the tonnage and installing a system based on what worked for the last 5 houses he did.

Enjoy your profession where you can still directly sell your Engineering while you can.

(okay, now I feel better after that rant...)