major leak issue please help

[mr-iceman]

iv'e been having a major leak issue on a rack mp39 checked everything on rack changed every shraeder valve, cap checked hot gas valve i meen everything. i get a call of numorus cases in alarm check receiver empty heat reclaim is on sucking rack dry i added 256lbs every thing is now stable cant find leak going back to store every couple of months to add gas searched every were. not to mention manager is refuseing to pay bill. please help.

[shaun66]

did u check piping, cut armaflex stick leak detector in, did u check the pits, did u go on roof, check condenser

[mdharris68]

My level of experience on rack systems is only on three different systems and I learn something new each time I have to work on them. So anything I say you probably know. What about low ambient controls? i.e. liquid staying in condensor? heat reclaim controls? ? Defrosted coils? liquid logged in evaps? If it were me, I would start adding leak dye to the system, give it aweek or two and start covering every piece of copper with a black light. Hopefully you don't have any underground runs. Are you familiar with leak dye? Some say it's not good for the refrigerant system, but if you dont have a good leak detector, this may work for you. The benefit of leak dye is if you have a pin hole on an evaporator, you will eventually find it even if you have to stand on your head with a mirror and light, but it will show up. I have found many a leak with this stuff out in the field of a coil where the fans may blow it away from a halide detector. I always revert to it when the leak is not obvious and not easy to find. Good Luck

[markettech]

iv'e been having a major leak issue on a rack mp39 checked everything on rack changed every shraeder valve, cap checked hot gas valve i meen everything. i get a call of numorus cases in alarm check receiver empty heat reclaim is on sucking rack dry i added 256lbs every thing is now stable cant find leak going back to store every couple of months to add gas searched every were. not to mention manager is refuseing to pay bill. please help.

If your losing 250+ lbs every couple of months - you got yourself a pretty good leak. There is no magic fix. Leak check with a good detector. Check reclaim coil and condenser. Be thorough, be patient, be methodical - you will find it.

[Dowadudda]

If your losing 250+ lbs every couple of months - you got yourself a pretty good leak. There is no magic fix. Leak check with a good detector. Check reclaim coil and condenser. Be thorough, be patient, be methodical - you will find it.

the determination of a guy can be the what and how people look at him. Nothing more to get respect than solving hard to find leaks.

Deeterminaton

[mr-iceman]

i checked condenser but armor flex is a good idea thank u

[mr-iceman]

My level of experience on rack systems is only on three different systems and I learn something new each time I have to work on them. So anything I say you probably know. What about low ambient controls? i.e. liquid staying in condensor? heat reclaim controls? ? Defrosted coils? liquid logged in evaps? If it were me, I would start adding leak dye to the system, give it aweek or two and start covering every piece of copper with a black light. Hopefully you don't have any underground runs. Are you familiar with leak dye? Some say it's not good for the refrigerant system, but if you dont have a good leak detector, this may work for you. The benefit of leak dye is if you have a pin hole on an evaporator, you will eventually find it even if you have to stand on your head with a mirror and light, but it will show up. I have found many a leak with this stuff out in the field of a coil where the fans may blow it away from a halide detector. I always revert to it when the leak is not obvious and not easy to find. Good Luck
i never realy use dye but in this case it sounds pretty good i have a d teck leak detector but it obviously is not finding the leak. im going to try the dye good idea. and i gota be a little more thorough. thanks a lot for your input.

[mrfixit-76]

nitrogen!!! I'm assuming you are using an electronic leak detector and have had no luck. I'm also assuming that you have underground piping at some point. If it's possible, stick the leak detector into the point at which the refrigerant lines enter the under ground. Be aware of polyurathane foam that may be sealing the penetration. When you cut it, it will release hydracarbons that set off your leak detector. If this is in fact the case, go old school and use a halide torch . I know it's acient but if there is refrigerant vapor present you will see the flame change. If you have no luck with this, you only have one option that is tried and true. Yu have to isolate the suspected piping and pressurize it with dry nitrogen. Make sure you cut and isloate the lines. Nitrogen in an active system will reak havoc. Once you have the lines under pressure, document it and wait I gurantee you this will work if you have a leak in the underground. If you do find a leak, you have to run new overhead lines. Good luck!!!

[mr-iceman]

:)

[smilies]

NO DYE IN RACKS. Patience, grasshopper, patience.

[mr-iceman]

nitrogen!!! I'm assuming you are using an electronic leak detector and have had no luck. I'm also assuming that you have underground piping at some point. If it's possible, stick the leak detector into the point at which the refrigerant lines enter the under ground. Be aware of polyurathane foam that may be sealing the penetration. When you cut it, it will release hydracarbons that set off your leak detector. If this is in fact the case, go old school and use a halide torch . I know it's acient but if there is refrigerant vapor present you will see the flame change. If you have no luck with this, you only have one option that is tried and true. Yu have to isolate the suspected piping and pressurize it with dry nitrogen. Make sure you cut and isloate the lines. Nitrogen in an active system will reak havoc. Once you have the lines under pressure, document it and wait I gurantee you this will work if you have a leak in the underground. If you do find a leak, you have to run new overhead lines. Good luck!!!
thanks man.

[markettech]

NO DYE IN RACKS.

;)

[mdharris68]

NO DYE IN RACKS. Patience, grasshopper, patience.

I need to know why not to put dye in a rack system? I have it in two single compressor units, 4 circuits each both low and med temp 404 & 22. (maybe you don't call that a rack.) Don't have it in the other one, split temp 15-18 circuit r22 traush rack. please inform me

[heatermanbob]

I only install Die as a last desperate result. I still have dye in one set of gauges from 6 months ago and i think it will never go away. 250 lbs in a three month period is nearly 3 lbs a day. get methodical and cover every inch of that system, you'll find it

[frostmonkey]

NO DYE IN RACKS. Patience, grasshopper, patience.

could not have said it better myself The only things, and I mean the only things that belong in a refrigeration system are refrigerant and oil.:cool: :cool: :cool: :cool:

Let me ask you one question... Are you cycling each system into defrost ( Assuming koolgas, or hotgas defrost)and then leak checking it. The defrost cycle will raise the case pressure making small leaks easierto find. I service only super markets and found that a good reliable leak detector is your best friend.Leak checking in this manner will mean a lot of trips to the machine room,but its the method that I have the most success with. Just remember leak checking is not an exact science, just pick a starting point and proceed in a logical manner. It will requirea lot of determination some times.

[itsamine]

I need to know why not to put dye in a rack system? I have it in two single compressor units, 4 circuits each both low and med temp 404 & 22. (maybe you don't call that a rack.) Don't have it in the other one, split temp 15-18 circuit r22 traush rack. please inform me

Real men don't use DYE's a good leak dector and time is all you need!;)

[NedFlanders]

Check under the meat case at the 5/8 L.L. 90*

[engineerdave]

Slow moves. Isolate and pressurize each system. A couple guys mentioned checking while in defrost. Check your Heat Reclaim, both Water and Air if thay are installed. Take a hard look at your condenser. Use your flashlight. The presence of oily Armaflex, pipes, etc can be a good place to start. When checking the Rack, check it shut down and check it running. If there are underground runs, poke your sniffer down the hole. Good luck man.

[mdharris68]

[quote=itsamine;1347813]Real men don't use DYE's a good leak dector and time is all you need!;)[/quote

A real man would give me a real answer.

[idontgetit]

[quote=itsamine;1347813]Real men don't use DYE's a good leak dector and time is all you need!;)[/quote

A real man would give me a real answer.


OK, because using dye in a rack is STUPID!

It also serves no purpose on a leak the size you say you have sir. It should be easily locatable with an electronic and if it is located in an area you can not see to use your electronic, you ain't gonna be able to see the dye either!

[mdharris68]

[quote=mdharris68;1347968]


OK, because using dye in a rack is STUPID!

It also serves no purpose on a leak the size you say you have sir. It should be easily locatable with an electronic and if it is located in an area you can not see to use your electronic, you ain't gonna be able to see the dye either!

1. Not my leak.

2. I'm just looking for a professional, logical answer to my previous question about why not put dye in rack systems.

3. I'm trying to learn something here and if I needed answers like I've been getting I could of asked my 16 year old son.

[barty]

Assuming it's R22 i would buy one of the old halide testers. Sit it in each 'space' IE plant room, cabinet, underground, lagging etc get the tube as low as possible and close the door, within 10 minutes it should start to pick a trace.

It must be noted that armaflex can give false indications so make sure it's a real leak before jumping up and down all excited like..

Cheers

Richard

[markettech]

The original post stated R401A - not sure a halide would be overly effective.

Dye in racks.............The main reason alot of professionals including myself do not like dye is because:

Dye mixes with the oil and makes a god awful mess any and every time oil escapes from the system, whether removing your gauges or checking net oil...whatever. Imagine this dye all over a rack and trying to find a leak with a light - it would be next to impossible.
This trade in general is not known for embracing "quick fixes" and the dye in my opinion is a lazy man's way of leak checking (or quick fixing) a system. Every time I run into a system that has been injected with the stuff I think to myself "This guy must have been too damn lazy to really look for the leak".
Someone said it a while back in another thread - there are only 2 things that belong in a refrigeration system, oil and refrigerant. The dye apparently does not cause problems but why have the variable in the equation while diagnosing a problem?
You can't possibly see any and every potential leak with dye, but you can find every leak with a good leak detector. For the most part, the only place a dye is effective is at the compressor rack.
That's all I can think of at the moment but there's more.;)

For all you guys that use dye - hey, more power to ya. I don't and won't.

[mdharris68]

The original post stated R401A - not sure a halide would be overly effective.

Dye in racks.............The main reason alot of professionals including myself do not like dye is because:

Dye mixes with the oil and makes a god awful mess any and every time oil escapes from the system, whether removing your gauges or checking net oil...whatever. Imagine this dye all over a rack and trying to find a leak with a light - it would be next to impossible.
This trade in general is not known for embracing "quick fixes" and the dye in my opinion is a lazy man's way of leak checking (or quick fixing) a system. Every time I run into a system that has been injected with the stuff I think to myself "This guy must have been too damn lazy to really look for the leak".
Someone said it a while back in another thread - there are only 2 things that belong in a refrigeration system, oil and refrigerant. The dye apparently does not cause problems but why have the variable in the equation while diagnosing a problem?
You can't possibly see any and every potential leak with dye, but you can find every leak with a good leak detector. For the most part, the only place a dye is effective is at the compressor rack.That's all I can think of at the moment but there's more.;)

For all you guys that use dye - hey, more power to ya. I don't and won't.

Thanks for the well thought out answers. I appreciate it. And if you think of more, keep em comin. I figure I have alot to learn.

[mdharris68]

The original post stated R401A - not sure a halide would be overly effective.

Dye in racks.............The main reason alot of professionals including myself do not like dye is because:

Dye mixes with the oil and makes a god awful mess any and every time oil escapes from the system, whether removing your gauges or checking net oil...whatever. Imagine this dye all over a rack and trying to find a leak with a light - it would be next to impossible.
This trade in general is not known for embracing "quick fixes" and the dye in my opinion is a lazy man's way of leak checking (or quick fixing) a system. Every time I run into a system that has been injected with the stuff I think to myself "This guy must have been too damn lazy to really look for the leak".
Someone said it a while back in another thread - there are only 2 things that belong in a refrigeration system, oil and refrigerant. The dye apparently does not cause problems but why have the variable in the equation while diagnosing a problem?
You can't possibly see any and every potential leak with dye, but you can find every leak with a good leak detector. For the most part, the only place a dye is effective is at the compressor rack.That's all I can think of at the moment but there's more.;)

For all you guys that use dye - hey, more power to ya. I don't and won't.

Thanks for the well thought out answers. I appreciate it. And if you think of more, keep em comin. I know I can learn alot from some of you guys.

[itsamine]

Want a real answer use bubbles! Using dye is lazy and messy. It takes time to find most of your leaks and if you don't have the time then don't waste your customers time either!

[icemeister]

R401A (MP-39) is 53% R22 so any decent leak detector should work OK, even an old halide torch.

Since this rack was apparently R12 initially, it has to be a least 15 years old. If the cases and coolers are of a similar vintage, I'd suggest checking the most likely suspects first, like the service deli cases and deli walk-in coils. By this time they're probably riddled with pinhole leaks from acidic corrosion. You can find similar corrosion in the produce area as well.

Next on my list of possible culprits would be the hot gas defrost cases and walk-in coils. The thermal expansion/contraction often causes fatigue cracking and rub-throughs.

[mdharris68]

Want a real answer use bubbles! Using dye is lazy and messy. It takes time to find most of your leaks and if you don't have the time then don't waste your customers time either!

Time has never really been an issue. Most time its dawn dishwashing soap and water. I've got to the point that I usually always go nitrogen and bubbles on every accessable joint and fitting for single circuit systems anyway. Dye is never my first choice, but I am really wanting to make sure there is no evidence of failure caused by dye. I put it in the system without going through my gages, and I agree it can be a mess if not handled properly. But I have found some very small leaks with the stuff . They ought to add dye to the refrigerant and color code it for quicker leak detection. But, if the pros don't use it, then that makes me a lazy, messy, hack I guess.

[itsamine]

Time has never really been an issue. Most time its dawn dishwashing soap and water. I've got to the point that I usually always go nitrogen and bubbles on every accessable joint and fitting for single circuit systems anyway. Dye is never my first choice, but I am really wanting to make sure there is no evidence of failure caused by dye. I put it in the system without going through my gages, and I agree it can be a mess if not handled properly. But I have found some very small leaks with the stuff . They ought to add dye to the refrigerant and color code it for quicker leak detection. But, if the pros don't use it, then that makes me a lazy, messy, hack I guess.

I use the tif zx-1 that is a very good leak dector. Probably the best I ever used. I do not like putting anything into the system that doesn't belong there. Dye works but if you have a failure and have to remove the gas then that crap is going through your recovery unit.That I don't like cause it cost me some good money.

[frostmonkey]

Time has never really been an issue. Most time its dawn dishwashing soap and water. I've got to the point that I usually always go nitrogen and bubbles on every accessable joint and fitting for single circuit systems anyway. Dye is never my first choice, but I am really wanting to make sure there is no evidence of failure caused by dye. I put it in the system without going through my gages, and I agree it can be a mess if not handled properly. But I have found some very small leaks with the stuff . They ought to add dye to the refrigerant and color code it for quicker leak detection. But, if the pros don't use it, then that makes me a lazy, messy, hack I guess.

Its too bad someone had to be so small minded to make you feel this way.Its just a matter of what you were taught. Leak detecting die has its uses, how ever it does not belong in a rack. First of all consider how much of the stuff you'd have to putin a rack to make it effective. Secondly think about the risk of contaminating the system. Every time you add some thing to a system ( refrigerant,oil,etc) you run the risk of contamination. Thirdly think about the leak checking procedure you would have to follow to check the cases for leaks using a uvlight; you would have to pull each and every case until you found it, where as if you were using a leak detecting method that likea halide or electronic leak detector you would just have pass the probe through the case and if theres refrigerant there it will pick it up. I work for an in house company that serviceces and maintains the equipment for a large grocery retailer in Canada. We have three racks inmy area that a outside contractor put die in, as an attempt to find problematic leaks, itdid not work for them, several years later, and multiple oil changes later.............we still have F*&%ing die in the rack it's a real pain in Donkey. Just my two cents worth.:)

[markettech]

R401A (MP-39) is 53% R22 so any decent leak detector should work OK, even an old halide torch.

Since this rack was apparently R12 initially, it has to be a least 15 years old. If the cases and coolers are of a similar vintage, I'd suggest checking the most likely suspects first, like the service deli cases and deli walk-in coils. By this time they're probably riddled with pinhole leaks from acidic corrosion. You can find similar corrosion in the produce area as well.

Next on my list of possible culprits would be the hot gas defrost cases and walk-in coils. The thermal expansion/contraction often causes fatigue cracking and rub-throughs.

I've been watching your posts for quite a while now - Jeez............Is there ANYTHING you don't know?:D :D

[dirtyboy103us]

Quote:
Originally Posted by icemeister
R401A (MP-39) is 53% R22 so any decent leak detector should work OK, even an old halide torch.

Since this rack was apparently R12 initially, it has to be a least 15 years old. If the cases and coolers are of a similar vintage, I'd suggest checking the most likely suspects first, like the service deli cases and deli walk-in coils. By this time they're probably riddled with pinhole leaks from acidic corrosion. You can find similar corrosion in the produce area as well.

Next on my list of possible culprits would be the hot gas defrost cases and walk-in coils. The thermal expansion/contraction often causes fatigue cracking and rub-throughs












I've been watching your posts for quite a while now - Jeez............Is there ANYTHING you don't know?:D :D





I think ice is a bot like star882, just ask a refrigeration question and see

[idontgetit]

Not one single compressor manufacture approves of it. Sure they do not reject most of the warranty claims because of dye, but they do reject some because of forien substances that are not oil or refrigerant.

If you contact ANY compressor rep and ask them their thoughts, they will tell you they do NOT authorize anything but refrigerant and oil.

This is why using dye is stupid.

Oh, FYI I have never heard of somone who works on a rack system using dawn and water. You might want to try Big-Blu or Bird-dog since they do not freeze, rendering the bubble effect useless.

[TGoodrich]

A leak that size ought to be easily detected with an ultrasonic leak detector. I'm surprised nobody has mentioned it. It will find leaks that are not easily accessible and there is no concern of contaminating the system. Dye is a method of last resort. The one drawback using an ultrasonic detector is eliminating background noise. You may have to go to the jobsite at night and shut some things down. But a large leak like that should be found rather quickly.

[icemeister]

I've been watching your posts for quite a while now - Jeez............Is there ANYTHING you don't know?:D :D

LMAO:D

Only the stuff I don't write about. ;)

[icemeister]

Quote:
I think ice is a bot like star882, just ask a refrigeration question and see

A Cliff Claven clone possibly....but definitely not a bot. ;)

[mdharris68]

Has the OP found his leak yet?

[Dowadudda]

I sometimes will shut the rack down, let suction pressure build.

[dirtyboy103us]

I sometimes will shut the rack down, let suction pressure build.


That is how i do a whole store shut it all down and start at the motor rm and let riser pits and sales floor cases build presure

then its off to the departments to do a little socializing while i'm leak checking...... and in about 45 mins i've done the whole store and getting to talk with deli/bakery and all the other people that can give you a heads up on a problem while your there

had one in riser that exaust fan would pull it out and till i shut that bugger down i would lose 100 lbs every 3 months and could not find

[frozensolid]

If you can't find the leak with an H-10 and bottle of bubbles, you are not being thorough. Most guys don't have the patience, leak checking is hard.

Die? when it coats the internal metal surfaces, how does this affect the precise clearances between the machined parts?

[james264]

O.K lets all start laughing at my post .Ran into an Albertsons tech back in the summer seems unit leaking refrigerant .bad leak etc. turns out maint. man was brought up on theft charges for sucking out over 100lbs of refrigerant during a 6 month period .JUST repeating the story don't know if it was BS or not !!

[Krzyd]

Not one single compressor manufacture approves of it. Sure they do not reject most of the warranty claims because of dye, but they do reject some because of forien substances that are not oil or refrigerant.

If you contact ANY compressor rep and ask them their thoughts, they will tell you they do NOT authorize anything but refrigerant and oil.

This is why using dye is stupid.

Oh, FYI I have never heard of somone who works on a rack system using dawn and water. You might want to try Big-Blu or Bird-dog since they do not freeze, rendering the bubble effect useless.

"Snoop" is a real good brand as well.

[len]

I need to know why not to put dye in a rack system? I have it in two single compressor units, 4 circuits each both low and med temp 404 & 22. (maybe you don't call that a rack.) Don't have it in the other one, split temp 15-18 circuit r22 traush rack. please inform me
the only thing that goes into a refer system,is #1 oil,#2 refrigerant,and nitro,load that puppy up to 200lbs with nitro you will find your leak,trust me you will.if you can tear off all the armor flex.make sure your tubing is not porrus(did i spell that right) spray all connections and if you can all the green tubing with big blu,pressurize with notrogen,and wait you will find your leak.http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r156/lenny52/2736.gif

[mr-iceman]

i have a d teck.Ichecked condenser coil reclaim coil,hot gas valves,flare nuts on pressure controls, seperator etc.but i gotta try in defrost. i appreciate the in put.

[mr-iceman]

I use a d teck and bubbles i dont prefer die

[mr-iceman]

not really ive only been on follow up once could not find it.

[mark itziro]

manual stem solenoids under cases are notorius for leaks. Get an H10 and dangle the sniffer about one inch off the ground next to the cases. Drag that sucker around the entire store and you should pick it up. Also turn off the main store air handler and go down into the trench and look around. A leak that size is probably liquid and you might have two pipes rubbing or a cracked elbow. All hope is lost if your using dye.

[raveon]

I have dye in my service truck, never put it in any rack system though. I service 4 rack systems on a regular basis that another company put dye into already ( don't know why ) Yes it's messy, dye all over the place, but I have to tell you I found the leaks pronto -2 so far. If I had to make a choice between looking like a incompetent tech to a customer as someone who couldn't find a simple leak ( ever find a owner who knows or cares what it takes to repair leaks ), when I really crawled over every inch and I asked co-workers for help and we still couldn't find the leak. I will put dye into the system and keep on looking because I have haven't done everything I possibly could to find the leak. Yes it would be a last resort, but I would do it, I don't like it - but I would.

[frigeguy]

NO DYE IN RACKS. Patience, grasshopper, patience.

I would like to second that motion and add I hate dye.
I service 400 + racks, no dye in any of them.

1) I use yellow jacket leak detectors, notice I have more than 1! They pick up 22 quite well.
2) Start leak detector in parking lot, starting in a machine room full of gas will not work, most electronic detectors adjust automatically. If your using the H10, your manual adjustment should be made well away from the building and exhaust from cars, trucks etc.
3) Shut off machine room exhaust.....wait...at times I have shut off body cooling fans also.
4) Each system in defrost, run the lines, poke a hole every 10 ft. in insulation. This may require a lift. (cost of lift vs. cost of refrigerant usually gets me a lift)
5) Check all components as mentioned earlier by other members, roof, heat reclaim etc. (hot water heat reclaim is a nasty thing depending on the type, the refrigerant could enter the water supply)
6) Shut down the air handling and exhaust systems. Check tunnel if you have one.
7) Shut down one pump at a time, let it cool off, leak detect and spray pump, Check for discharge leaks at this point, great time to check if your valves are leaking by also ;)

If you don't have it by this point, start over and do it again. Oh did I mention do it again, by the way check everything again. One thing that you learn over the years is when you think you found it and repaired it check again!!!! Let the building air out once you repaired what you think was the only leak and go back the next day and check it again. Step 2 is where most fail, don't calibrate H10 in a building or machine room full of refrigerant! Walk outside and reset. Big Blue works well in the other hand...but hot leaks won't show that way, I spray down the epr's etc. and wait 5 mins. The foam will appear. R22 low temp have demand cooling located under the oil cooler on the pump, Check 3/8 flare and solinoid stem, pump off suction service valve closed. Oil anywhere is always a good starting point, 90% of our machine rooms have very little oil anywhere, rag in back pocket as I go.

Dye gets everywhere, contaminates the field, not to mention your tools, hands, floor. Just think about it, everytime you put a set of guages on a system you leave a trail, how exactly will this help you in the future? Had a major leak on the washroom sink, No it was just a mechanic washing his hands last week.

ANY FURTHER IDEAS WELCOME ON THIS POST...AS A COMBINATION OF IDEAS USUALLY GETS BETTER RESULTS....AND I HAVE ABSOLUTELY NO IDEA WHAT I'M DOING.

[Biblepoet]

Here is another 2 cents for you. Once in a rare while I have found leaks in the ends of the braids of vibration eliminators. Also, have you checked the electrical terminal connections of the compressor. I have found rare cases where the "normal" vibration of the compressor over time loosens the nuts that hold the terminals in place.

On a side note, please let us know if and where you found the leaks - saves us old farts from going crazy in trying to think of other locations to help you "look".:D

[sarpanch2001]

a year and half old thread ;)

[Executioner]

You know I gotta laugh at people the like to put "NO DYE AT ALL" they have not gone farther than the pain it is to clean off them or thier equipment, reason being, I've used dye in everything from small units up to large walkin's and the only bad aspect is the oil is colored and soo are my hands:rolleyes:

BIG DEAL!


I have seen absolutely NO evidence of flourescent dyes having ANY detrimental effects on any system at all!

NEVER seen a clogged cap. tube gunked up with dye.
NEVER seen a txv screen clogged either
NEVER seen a compressor die within a reasonable amount of time solely due to adding dye.


HMM??

I know you guys don't like dye cause it IS VERY MESSY....but that is no excuse for denouncing a good method of leak detection.


I would like to see pictures proving a failure or other factual evidence from the use of dyes.

NOT HERESAY!





PROVE ME WRONG!!!

[Executioner]

I have to add that in no way am I trying to insult fellow co workers in this profession.


I'm just tired of these blatant statments that dye is bad and I want proof.

No arguement...no debate! provide proof!

[Freezeking2000]

I always shut down all HVAC rquipment in the building including exhaust fans while checking with my H-10 and D-tec.

I was in the markets for 10 years and never saw dye in a rack system.

[r404a]

Did this guy ever find his leak? I would START with a halide on this one- I don't think an H10 would calibrate in an area with this kind of leak.

a thought: Could he have a discharge service valve missing a cap or bad packing blowing this kind of charge over time? I think it is possible.

as to the addition of dye, one of the proponents here actually pointed out what I don't like: colored oil. I imagine it throws off an acid test sample in the field, so as to make it hard to determine acid levels.


r404a

[virginia tech]

We use dye here. The company purchased dye kits for the entire fleet. I hate it, but, i use it, company policy....

Adding dye to a supermarket rack, i couldn't imagine how much you would need to use, and a leak that big the store may become a little more colorful.

Just take your time, make a starting point and work you way back to that point. Take your time and be patient. If you second guess where a possible leak is go back after a few minutes or so and check it again. If you spend time looking for a leak, it is time well spent and the customer will be happy that he doesn't need to pay for a few thousand more pounds of refrigerant.

good luck!!

[refermech]

Cut line sets cap each install pressure gauges line taps pressure each line note pressures on gauges and watch for # drop there is you leak or cut lines install ball valves seperate and pressure same as above I fil your pain as I had the same problem on a Cold Zone Rack system but the above found the leak tiny holes in underside of line set replaced same. Also use Nitrogen

[coolhand55]

Don't forget to check press. control bellows/cap tubes and compressor electrical studs.

[coolhand55]

There's a lot of opinions about No Dye In Racks, with no explanations as to why. I imagine it might be messy, but some good things are.;)