PDA

View Full Version : Bad liquid service valve



myott
01-14-2013, 09:31 PM
Went out today to do a simple coil-pull-and -clean and low and behold a huge problem. Went to do a pump down and shut the liquid line service valve and guess what? It would not shut down. I took and pressed down on it to get the threads started but that did not work. Duhhhhhhhh......

Had to explain to the customer that I now need to replace service valve as well as the coil clean. Lucky he understood and I grabbed the recover tank and recovery machine to reclaim the R22. Cut coil out and cleaned with my coil gun, man I love that thing.

Reinstalled coil and added new heat pump dryer while at it. Cut service valve out and installed new one. Charged to proper superheat using my Amp-probe to take WB readings and plugged in the super heat reading to SMAN3 to dial it in.

I am thinking the installer must have cooked the valve and when he opened the valve on start up , front seated to valve to much. What do you guys think?

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

gravity
01-14-2013, 11:00 PM
Sounds practical.

VTP99
01-14-2013, 11:32 PM
Cut coil out and cleaned with my coil gun, man I love that thing.

Do you always remove the coil to clean ?

I am thinking the installer must have cooked the valve and when he opened the valve on start up , front seated to valve to much. What do you guys think?

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Did you mean to say back seated the valve to much ?

timjimbob
01-15-2013, 07:58 AM
If Lennox, these are one shot valves and will not close.

t527ed
01-15-2013, 08:47 AM
If Lennox, these are one shot valves and will not close.

when they did use them it was only on the suction line, they have not been used in quite a few years though.

myott
01-15-2013, 08:56 AM
Yes, back seated valve.

myott
01-15-2013, 08:57 AM
If Lennox, these are one shot valves and will not close.

It was a Carrier

timjimbob
01-15-2013, 08:58 AM
myott- get a pinchoff tool or two. You can stop the refrigerant in copper tube like it was a valve and open it later.

Great for adding a LL filter without having to pump down system, or if your service valve is broke.

SkullMonkey
01-15-2013, 09:19 AM
myott- get a pinchoff tool or two. You can stop the refrigerant in copper tube like it was a valve and open it later.

Great for adding a LL filter without having to pump down system, or if your service valve is broke.

Never thought of this. Do you open the tubing using a flaring block?

timjimbob
01-15-2013, 09:25 AM
Same tool .does both

SkullMonkey
01-15-2013, 09:27 AM
Thanks, that will come in handy.

y7turbo
01-15-2013, 12:49 PM
**** happens and valves fail to hold all the time, no need to automatically blame the installer or a person.. That effing valve was probably made in China anyway.

hvac5646
01-15-2013, 01:17 PM
Valves aren't what they used to be. I heat sink the valves with extra rags...makes brazing a little tougher, but at least I don't cook any more cheap Chinese valves.

I'd hate to be the guy using a Turbo Torch these day...you have to use them full open and you can't adjust the flame size. Makes for any easy overheat situation.

I know few guys who can use a Turbo with out over heating line set and valves.

hvac5646
01-15-2013, 01:17 PM
Valves aren't what they used to be. I heat sink the valves with extra rags...makes brazing a little tougher, but at least I don't cook any more cheap Chinese valves.

I'd hate to be the guy using a Turbo Torch these day...you have to use them full open and you can't adjust the flame size. Makes for any easy overheat situation.

I know few guys who can use a Turbo with out over heating line set and valves.

trai
01-15-2013, 03:34 PM
what the brand of that pinch off tool.

VTP99
01-15-2013, 03:44 PM
what the brand of that pinch off tool.

Imperial tools makes one.

VTP99
01-15-2013, 03:49 PM
For what it's worth I personally would not use a pinch off tool on a thru type line. On a process tube or to remove a pressure switch is one thing. Pinching a line then re rounding it is h*ll on the tube wall. That's my :.02:

Dchappa21
01-15-2013, 04:20 PM
For what it's worth I personally would not use a pinch off tool on a thru type line. On a process tube or to remove a pressure switch is one thing. Pinching a line then re rounding it is h*ll on the tube wall. That's my :.02:

I agree.

myott
01-15-2013, 10:06 PM
myott- get a pinchoff tool or two. You can stop the refrigerant in copper tube like it was a valve and open it later.

Great for adding a LL filter without having to pump down system, or if your service valve is broke.

If you do crimp off area to add a liquid line dryer how do then evacuate the area between the crimped area? Adding a shrader valve?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Snapperhead
01-16-2013, 08:25 AM
If you do crimp off area to add a liquid line dryer how do then evacuate the area between the crimped area? Adding a shrader valve?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD just use the low side valve port

you will have low side valve closed off , so the shrader will still be available to you on the evap side

timjimbob
01-16-2013, 09:20 AM
you could add a 1/4" tap. Use two pinch offs, cut out old filter and reinstall filter w/ shrader and pull a 5 minute vacuum. reform tube.

I'm not a fan of pulling vacuum through a TXV.

Snapperhead
01-16-2013, 08:41 PM
Now that I think about it , if you did the pinch off way , your better off adding a shrader near the bad valve , otherwise you wont be able to flow nitro while brazing. Now you can pull a vac from both sides as well.