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jeff-4
10-06-2006, 02:34 PM
Hi! I have posted here before and received lots of good advice. I have one simple question (and read on for other advice you can give me!):

Could someone please let me know what Manual J, Version 8, lists as the design conditions for a heating calculation for a home in Minneapolis, MN?

I understand the indoor temperature is to be set to 70 F. I need to know the outdoor value (which I believe is listed in Table 1A). I do not own a copy of Manual J.

Why am I asking? I'll try to be brief. I ran into a lot of installation issues with the contractor who installed a Ruud Modulating furnace in my home last February. People here were very helpful to me (Thanks again!). Even after the installation issues were resolved, I still felt that my house was very slow to heat up in the morning. Talking over the summer with a friend who is an HVAC professional, he feels that the installed furnace is too small. After I carefully measured floors, windows, etc., in my home, he did a Manual J calculation for me (using indoor 70 F and outdoor -12 F) that showed that the furnace is too small. The calculations showed that the furnace was about 6% undersized. So, the furnace is not dramaatically undersized, but my feeling is that, living in Minnesota with a furnace for the next 18+ years, I want to have enough capacity to keep the house warm during an extreme cold snap. I can provide lots of details but will spare you of them at the moment.

I contacted my contractor with the issues, politely suggesting that the furnace may be undersized and offering the data and claculations, and faxed them to him. I told him that, if the furnace was indeed too small, I would willingly pay the cost differential of the hardware but I expected that he would have to bear the re-installation costs. He had his own guy do the "same" calculations, which of course showed the furnace to be adequately sized, and declared that my guy was incompetent. My HVAC friend doesn't want to ruffle feathers and wants his name kept out of the issue (a condition I agreed to). So, its a me versus them issue at present. I'd rather resolve the issue with the contractor than immediately think about litigation (but I will do this, if need be).

There are several suspect items in my contractor's heat load computation. First, they set the indoor temperature to 68 and the outdoor temperature to +17 F. I objected that this was not representative of the "worst-case" design scenario, but he insisted that the computations were done "by the book, version 8 of Manual J," including the +17 F outdoor temperature. Hence the one question above. Second, only the gross summaries of the computations were sent to me. There was no detail page withe the numbers that went into the computation. So what other things were assumed to make their computation come out with a smaller heat load? Finally, when I said that the sizing criterion should be as follows: needed furnace size (in input BTUs) >= the computed heat load (under worst-case conditions) divided by furnace efficiency (AFUE), he almost blew a fuse, stating something like "it's far more complicated than that."

So, first admonish me for not more carefully choosing a contractor and not demanding a heat load computation up front (although these guys may have simply fudged it anyhow for their own purposes).

But next, could anyone provide advice? I'd be willing to pay someone to become involved, with the understanding that these numbers might have to be carried to small claims court. Are ther other alternatives?

Thanks in advance to all who respond!

coordinatesales
10-06-2006, 03:39 PM
My Man J 7th edition (I don't have a copy of the 8th handy) lists an indoor design temp of 75 and outdoor winter temp of -12 for Minneapolis. The indoor can be ajusted according to what the homeowner wants but it sounds like your friend is closer on this one.

jeff-4
10-06-2006, 03:47 PM
Thank you! This information is important, because it means that either my contractor is being dishonmest or he is ignorant. I can't imagine that the outdoor temperature has been revised upward from -12 F to +17 F in the 8th edition.

And is my interpretation of needed furnace size (input maximum) must be equal to or greater than the computed Manual J heat load under these design conditions divided by the furnace's efficiency (AFUE)?

lksmith
10-06-2006, 10:29 PM
Jeff,

Why don't you just purchase the HVAC Calc that is available on this forum. It's only $49 and it's easy to use, even for a non-knowledgeable homeowner like myself. I think it would be money well spent.

FWIW, I couldnt't get a contractor to even do the heat load calcs. After accepting a bid, I wouldn't let them install until I did the load calcs. Luckily, it matched fairly closely to what the contractor had suggested. Good luck.

Larry Smith

Freezeking2000
10-06-2006, 10:40 PM
So on a cold night you can not maintain setpoint?

I would invest in a better thermostat like the honeywell so it will be at temp when you want it at temp.

Do you realize that when a furnace runs constantly it is most effecient and getting a larger furnace will consume more energy?

Why do you not look for a way to shed a few thousand BTU's from your load?

In Minn I would want to have my furnace running all night to keep the warm air flowing.

beenthere
10-07-2006, 06:43 AM
Originally posted by Freezeking2000
So on a cold night you can not maintain setpoint?

I would invest in a better thermostat like the honeywell so it will be at temp when you want it at temp.



Because then his mod furnace wouldn't modulate, it would just stage.

dan sw fl
10-07-2006, 06:44 AM
Originally posted by jeff-4
Could someone please let me know what Manual J, Version 8, lists as the design conditions for a heating calculation for a home in Minneapolis, MN?

I contacted my contractor with the issues, politely suggesting that the furnace may be undersized and offering the data and claculations, and faxed them to him. I told him that, if the furnace was indeed too small, I would willingly pay the cost differential of the hardware but I expected that he would have to bear the re-installation costs.

There are several suspect items in my contractor's heat load computation.

First, they set the indoor temperature to 68 and the outdoor temperature to +17 F.

I objected that this was not representative of the "worst-case" design scenario, but he insisted that the computations were done "by the book, version 8 of Manual J," including the +17 F outdoor temperature.

But next, could anyone provide advice? I'd be willing to pay someone to become involved, with the understanding that these numbers might have to be carried to small claims court. Are there other alternatives?


+17'F obviously indicates negligence.
-11'F = ASHRAE 99% heating DB

28'F / 30'F difference seems to be significantly
more than just 6% undersized.

70- -11 = 81'F Proper Design
68- +17 = 51'F RUUD dealer calc.
.. appears to be >> 30% difference
in the calculated heat load.

I would not be concerned with a 6% undersizing, however a much larger % undersizing may be quite objectionable in real performance. It appears that you may find out in a few months, if other resolution is not addressed.

___ "Are there other alternatives? "
What indoor and outdoor temperatures are addressed
by the applicable, current MN Residential Building Code?

Amended 6:57 AM:
http://www.mncodes.org/heating.htm

Amended 7:12 AM
http://www.revisor.leg.state.mn.us/bin/getpub.php?pubtype=RULE_CHAP&year=current&chapter=1309



[Edited by dan sw fl on 10-07-2006 at 07:13 AM]

elkhvac
10-07-2006, 10:08 AM
[B]
Originally posted by jeff-4
[B] Could someone please let me know what Manual J, Version 8, lists as the design conditions for a heating calculation for a home in Minneapolis, MN?[B]



It's still "-12"

watercop
10-07-2006, 10:31 AM
The cynic in me suspects that the contractor ran the load calcs with different (warmer) outdoor design temps until the load matched the installed furnace.

+17 Deg F is simply ludicrous for Minneapolis, MN.

That's why I don't live there.

You may well wind up in court with these clowns.

good luck

coolmen
10-07-2006, 09:20 PM
to design indoor temp at 68 degrees at heating is just plain stupid.

jeff-4
10-09-2006, 12:24 PM
Again, this forum has been very helpful, and thanks to all!

I decided that I needed to take things more completely into my own hands. I ordered HVAC-Calc (a real bargain at $49, in my opinion) and spent several hours runnning cases. I found that:

1. My friend's calculations employed some conservative assumptions that slightly overstated the heat load.
2. The contractor's calculations were still ludicrous, especially with trespect to their design temperatures.
BUT
3. The furnace is actually OK. The calculations showed that it is VERY close to the edge of what is needed. A conservative decision would bump the furnace capacity to the next level, but if you believe the numbers, they say the current capacity should be acceptable.

I am still peeved with the contractor, who was very patronizing during this process (like it was an insult for me to even question THEIR numbers, even though mine were dismissed out of hand!).

Thanks again!

dan sw fl
10-09-2006, 09:29 PM
Originally posted by jeff-4


Again, this forum has been very helpful, and thanks to all!

I decided that I needed to take things more completely into my own hands. I ordered HVAC-Calc (a real bargain at $49, in my opinion) and spent several hours runnning cases. I found that:
...

3. The furnace is actually OK. The calculations showed that it is VERY close to the edge of what is needed. A conservative decision would bump the furnace capacity to the next level, but if you believe the numbers, they say the current capacity should be acceptable.


So, how much did you include for duct losses at -12'F?

climakers
10-09-2006, 10:58 PM
Did I miss something here? You stated that the furnace takes a long time to heat up in the morning ( assuming after setback). You did not say that the house does not get to the indoor design temperature of 70 degrees. You stated that the initial furnace installation issues were resolved. If the furnace matches the design load, then it will take longer to get up to temperature after a setback when the outdoor temperature is near or at design. If your house does not get up to the 70 degree setpoint at -12, then I would agree that the furnace is too small. Manual J has a safety factor built into it.

beenthere
10-10-2006, 05:07 AM
What temp rise did they set your mod to maintain.

jeff-4
10-10-2006, 05:48 PM
Originally posted by dan sw fl
[/B]

So, how much did you include for duct losses at -12'F?

[/B][/QUOTE]

If I understand, there are no duct losses. All of the ducts for this home (and most others up here, I would guess) run through conditioned space. Losses from the ducts go into heating the home.

jeff-4
10-10-2006, 06:01 PM
Originally posted by climakers
Did I miss something here? You stated that the furnace takes a long time to heat up in the morning ( assuming after setback). You did not say that the house does not get to the indoor design temperature of 70 degrees. You stated that the initial furnace installation issues were resolved. If the furnace matches the design load, then it will take longer to get up to temperature after a setback when the outdoor temperature is near or at design. If your house does not get up to the 70 degree setpoint at -12, then I would agree that the furnace is too small. Manual J has a safety factor built into it.

The house did get to the setpoint temperature last winter, but last winter we did not experience any significant cold spells (I believe it was the 5th warmest on record). In fact, there was never a day with a high of -12 to see if the house came to 70.

I realize that these are two separate issues. However, that the house was slow to recover led me to question if the furnace was undersized to begin with (as I said, the contractor did not do any heat load calculations and, perhaps I didn't say, replaced an older 80,000 BTU, 97% furnace with a 75,000 BTU Mod). I wanted the sizing issue to be addressed before any performance issues were investigated.

We do set back the thermostat to 58 from 68 in the winter. On a colder morning, say near 0 F, I'd need to set the thermostat for 68 at 4:30 a.m. to be close to 68 by 7:00 a.m. I'd estimate that the furnace was running for 3 hrs+ to get back. The rate of recovery seemed to be about 3 F/hr, which seemed much slower than the previous furnace.

jeff-4
10-10-2006, 06:03 PM
Originally posted by beenthere
What temp rise did they set your mod to maintain.

I do not know. I am happy to ask. What do you believe it should be set to?

I think they will be coming out next week to check the furnace settings and (yay!) install the new White-Rodgers thermostat.

beenthere
10-10-2006, 06:21 PM
Might want to try both 55 and 65, and see which one works best for your house.

Duct issues could also cause the mod not to bring the temp up at fast as your old furnace.