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kamikaze126
09-21-2012, 03:10 PM
Anyone having problems with sealrite or similar no loss couplings.... 2 this year 1 a leaker and one just froze up tight will not turn. They are expensive!

clifpaul
09-21-2012, 04:28 PM
I haven't. I do have one that's worn out and needs to be rebuilt. Just haven't gotten around to it yet. (It leaks now) My new one I haven't had any problems with. Yet.:)

martyinlincoln
09-21-2012, 06:16 PM
The one that doesn't turn... look in the end and you'll see a slot. Take a small screwdriver and screw that piece in 1/8th of a turn or so.

Sometimes a leaker can be fixed with just new o-rings. Other times it takes a rebuild kit,which is darn near the price of a new one.

mason
09-21-2012, 07:41 PM
I switched over to ball valves a few years ago, not going back any time soon.

allan38
09-22-2012, 01:23 PM
I just gave up on the seal rite fittings. I'd been bouncing back and forth between the add-on ball valves and the seal rite. I just bought a set of the Yellow Jacket 25985 3-pak PLUS II 1/4" Hose with FlexFlow Valves. They work just fine and are as easy to hook up in confined spaces as regular hoses.

Glenn Harrison
09-22-2012, 08:07 PM
I have a set of Yellow Jacket Seal Right hoses that are 5 years old now. I just completely rebuilt them for the first time this summer. Otherwise I just replace the o-ring as needed (2 or 3 times a year) and they keep on sealing. Plus I use them on 410A, which your really not supposed to do according to YJ.

Otherwise I have been using Seal Right for at least 10 years, and mainly just replace the o-rings, just like you would replace the gaskets.

Christopher_K
09-22-2012, 08:28 PM
I keep an old Rx bottle with #83 o-rings on the truck and just replace the front o-ring any time 1 fails. Rub a little nylog on the new o-ring before changing.

jpsmith1cm
09-22-2012, 08:51 PM
The NRP brand are really good at 'locking up' like you describe.

There is a little o-ring inside between the outer knurled part and the inner valve.

Take the snap ring off, toss that SOB o-ring, tighten it back up, put the outer housing back together and go back to work. Takes a couple minutes.

pacnw
09-23-2012, 01:26 AM
as has been posted in other threads, the low loss fittings are NOT 410A approved. Nobody said if 22 or 410, but just thought I would restate that.

jp- do you replace the o-ring or just do without it completely?

jpsmith1cm
09-23-2012, 08:50 AM
as has been posted in other threads, the low loss fittings are NOT 410A approved. Nobody said if 22 or 410, but just thought I would restate that.

jp- do you replace the o-ring or just do without it completely?

Actually, I've pretty much done away with the sealrite type hoses in favor of ball valve hoses.

I did without the o-ring, though. The inner valve assembly would loosen up every once in a while, but I carried a pair of split ring pliers and repaired them on the fly.

Now, all I have to carry is a small tin with o-rings and depressors for on the fly repairs.

kamikaze126
09-24-2012, 04:26 PM
thanks problem solved

y7turbo
09-24-2012, 06:31 PM
as has been posted in other threads, the low loss fittings are NOT 410A approved. Nobody said if 22 or 410, but just thought I would restate that.



J/B has low loss fittings rated for 410a.