Disconect

[tlp7]

Have any of you ever ran across a bad blade style disconect. the blade is not making a good connection at times and the unit wont start. i bump the blade and unit works. i have checked all connections and this is the only loose part. I am going to replace it monday when i can get a new one. is this a common part to go bad and can they be fixed or should they always be replaced.

[ryan1088]

You can't squeeze the female part to get a good connection?

[dandyme]

replacing the disconnect is the only thing that will resolve the issue

generally see that problem on older disconnects

[matt1124]

Replace it. Sqeezing the socket closed a little is only a short term solution. As disconnects get old they eventually wear out, it's a common thing.

[timebuilder]

Yep. Replacement is the answer.

Ever see what happens when it gets worse?

[tlp7]

ryan if it was a lever type that might work but this is the pulll out type so with out taking it all the way apart i dont think that will work. still not sure if i would have access to the part that needed to be squeezed.it looks to be incased in plastic. yes dandy it is older about 12 yrs old. they are cheap and easy to replace i had just never ran into a bad one before.

[shaworth1]

always replace a suspected faulty disconnect, there not that expensive and the homeowner deserves as safe a system as possible.

[timebuilder]

Have any of you ever ran across a bad blade style disconect. the blade is not making a good connection at times and the unit wont start. i bump the blade and unit works. i have checked all connections and this is the only loose part. I am going to replace it monday when i can get a new one. is this a common part to go bad and can they be fixed or should they always be replaced.

A little help on terminology.

The three phase disconnect in the picture I posted has blades, or "tines."

A typical residential disconnect has "blades" or "tines" as well. So, these terms don't tell the reader (or listener on a phone call) which type of disconnect you mean.

Whenever I want to describe the residential type, I say "pull disconnect." You can also distinguish between "fused pull disconnect" and "unfused pull disconnect." Both types are available at the supply house.

I have found that most of the pull disconnects I see, need to be replaced. They typically show a LOT of scorching of the tines, as if they have been used to interrupt power to a locked rotor compressor, and several times by the look of them.

If the disconnect is suspect, replace it!

[hvacvegas]

always replace a suspected faulty disconnect, there not that expensive and the homeowner deserves as safe a system as possible, for techs to work on.

Dang straight.

[cavitech]

Its a common enough issue that all AC installs I do get a Breaker switch style disconnect with a GFI outlet. Cause I'm lookin out for the next guy.

[matt1124]

Pull out types are like 8 bucks for a name brand. If it's that type I always replace it when replacing the condensor.

[Thorazine]

Change it out. You won't wake up at 2:00 am thinking I should have changed that disconnect........

[dandyme]

OP, eventually you will see more

always enjoy finding those big knife switches screwed up

[tlp7]

Thanks for all the answers i didn't think there was much repair work that could be done to it other than checking for tight connections and i did that. and yes it is the cheap grey resi non fused pull out type not to be confused with the lever type pictured a few post back

[Tony3696]

Whenever an electrical component is proven faulty, just replace it. Its safer for everyone involved and you can sleep well at night. We only install the disconnects with the GFI outlets on them (single phase residential) it makes life much easier in the future.

[matt1124]

Can someone link the disconnects with the gfci in it? I've never seen one I don't think.

[ammoniadog]

Can someone link the disconnects with the gfci in it? I've never seen one I don't think.
I don't think I have ever seen one either. How are the outlets wired up? Do you have to pull a separate neutral and hot wire from the breaker panel to make them work?

Is an outlet required near the condensing unit on residential stuff per code? I know that they are required for commercial roof-top units, but am not sure about residential.

[hurtinhvac]

always replace a suspected faulty disconnect, there not that expensive and the homeowner deserves as safe a system as possible.

A few blocks away a very reputable contractor put in a shiny new Bryant with the existing disconnect. A few days later the HO heard a small explosion and came out to see the disconnect on fire and melting the siding. Now if I see any rust on the lugs or other problems on an install I'll change them even if the shop has to send one over.

I don't need to be thinking about a questionable disconnect as I'm trying to drift of to sleep.

[Redenius]

I've ran into a disconnect that was 3 phase 240v 60amp that the bar inside was loose. It would only energize L3 and it was missing a metal piece to make the bar push up L1 and 2. I just replaced it didn't want another tech dying from L1 and 2 staying energized.

[timebuilder]

In my pic above, only the A phase is connected to the bar...

[catmanacman]

Most disconnects i find bad are connected to aluminum wire with no goo on it

[Tony3696]

I don't think I have ever seen one either. How are the outlets wired up? Do you have to pull a separate neutral and hot wire from the breaker panel to make them work?

Is an outlet required near the condensing unit on residential stuff per code? I know that they are required for commercial roof-top units, but am not sure about residential.

I can't remember the mfg, I will find out tomorrow and post a pic. It's looks like a regular pull style disconnect just with an GFI outlet beneath it.

[CoolWine]

I can't remember the mfg, I will find out tomorrow and post a pic. It's looks like a regular pull style disconnect just with an GFI outlet beneath it.

http://www.amazon.com/Siemens-WN2060U-Non-Fused-Disconnect-receptacle/dp/B0052MDMIS/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1344829804&sr=8-1-fkmr2&keywords=Disconnect+Gfci+Panel

[hvacvegas]

I don't think I have ever seen one either. How are the outlets wired up? Do you have to pull a separate neutral and hot wire from the breaker panel to make them work?

Is an outlet required near the condensing unit on residential stuff per code? I know that they are required for commercial roof-top units, but am not sure about residential.

NEC requires a outlet with 20', on new installations/relocations. Not replacements.

We've "attempted" to install one we had at the shop. Bossman claims it works, using the 220v.

Which, it doesn't. On those disconnects, you must run 2 circuits. One for 220v, one for 110v. Unless you try and hack it in and put neutral to ground.

Just pray you don't become a shorter path to ground when you plug in.
Or that you pull higher than 15 amps, and it catches fire because it's protected by the breaker sized for the A/C, not the outlet.

The reason they make them, is so you don't have to mount a seperate outdoor rated recepticle box.

[matt1124]

I figured that's what it was. You'd either have to be lucky enough to find a neutral capped off in the existing disconnect or run new wire. "Siemens - for when the lowest bid gets the job!"

[mlstark]

Here's one I just recently replaced.

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk 2

[Tony3696]

Can someone link the disconnects with the gfci in it? I've never seen one I don't think.

http://www.milbankmfg.com/products/catalogs/CatalogFiles/PDF/ACD-U3822-3832.pdf