Need Heat Pump Advise Please

[rac43]

I live near Dallas Texas, now 105 on a cool day:(
I have a 3.5 ton 1997 Carrier heat pump and a Carrier air handler, FB4ANF048, than says it handles up to 4 tons. Has one of those control valves on front which I am told allows it to handle modern pumps.. Advise I need is what do you think is the largest seer rate I can use with this handler. I think it is a seer 10??
My heat pump is working now but every 8-10 months looses the start capacitor(sp) and cost me $200-$350 to replace it. It is a 9 year old pump and I want to replace it. After a lot of INTERNET research, I come up with a Trane XR14 3.5 or a Goodman 3.5, seer 14./ My house is 84 built, 1660sf. I just had R39 blown in my attic, set therm. at 80 day, 79 night. Expense is a major factor, best "bang for the buck". No more Carrier, ever! Please advise and thanks lots.

[iheatncoolinnc]

Do not put in the 3.5 ton just because that is what you have now. Have a Manual J load calculation done to help determine the size needed. I would not want to keep an old air handler and install a new outside unit. The old air handler will probably fail before the new outside unit does and you will be back in the same position. It will be less expensive to replace both at the same time than doing at seperate times. The new system would give you an ARI matched system that should lower your operating cost. I put should because that is if installed properly. You will have more choices. Some quality contractors are not going to attach a new outside unit to an existing nine year old air handler.

[rac43]

Thanks iheatncoolinnc but replacing my handler is not an option for me now. I know thats best way but now, I want to replace the outside pump and reason for asking here is you folks are not trying to sell me anything and your opinion is valuable to me.

[iheatncoolinnc]

I personally will not put a new heat pump in with a 9 year old air handler. Each case is different. I would probably recommend repairing the unit one more time and replace everything at the same time. You will probably waste that much doing them at seperate times. Also in less than four years you might not be able to get another refrigerant 22 air handler and could look at changing the entire system if you have a major problem with the air handler. Something is causing the capacitors to blow. Low voltage, loose wires, wrong start capacitor for compressor in unit? etc.

[docholiday]

Originally posted by rac43
Thanks iheatncoolinnc but replacing my handler is not an option for me now. I know thats best way but now, I want to replace the outside pump and reason for asking here is you folks are not trying to sell me anything and your opinion is valuable to me.


Installing a new heat pump on an exsisiting coil is not a wise move. I'm sure there are plenty of less than educated contractors in your area that will be more than happy to oblige but consider yoursef warned. Carrier was not your problem but if you feel better switching brands, then you now have even more reason to switch both indoor and outdoor units.

It's not that you have two pieces, its a system, designed as a system. Its not like having a kennmore washer and a maytag dryer. The shame is there are too many people that think it is.

[BaldLoonie]

I would check with Carrier or Bryant dealer, or maybe one of the guys on here could tell you... is that air handler rated with a 13 SEER if you stay with the same brand. Could be that putting a TXV on the coil will let it work with a new unit OK. At a glance, the new 13 SEER Carrier pumps will work with a FC4B air handler with TXV. The C model is 1 generation newer, not sure if the coil is bigger or any other SEER enhancing differences.

If you have to use the old coil, I'd sure stay in the Carrier family. A 14 SEER Goodman or Trane is not a wise match.

[rac43]

Hi Loonie, this handler does have TXV installed and a local AC company tells me it will work with the newest pumps.
Thanks
Bob

[iheatncoolinnc]

A bad match with a heat pump could work great all summer but be either low of refrigerant or overcharged with refrigerant when it comes time to heat. Be careful. You could spend more money keeping your new mismatched system working properly than it cost to keep the old system working. AND do not blame it on the equipment.

[rac43]

Ok guys, you have me convinced. I'm now looking at replacing both. I just don't want the 9, almost 10 year old Carrier system craping out on me during these 106-108 days. This Carrier heat pump did stop on me two days ago and it was that damn big can capacitor again. Two companys have checked my system, all wiring and switches, all Ok. Reading on the net, Carrier had a lot of start cap problems 10 years ago and even ordered a recall, so I heard. I think i have one of Carrier's better idea heat pumps.

[city]

I am a homeowner, believe me it is best to have a properly matched system. I use to have a 13 seer heat pump that was matched with an old airhandler. After almost two years of paying high electric bill. I deciced to change both inside an outside unit with new everything. When i mean everthing, i mean everything. I have a very efficient system . My electric bills are much lower and i enjoy a/c or heat all day. You will be better of taking a loan from a bank to finance your new system, and instead of calling different HVAC system to have your system repaird you can have peace of mind. All the pros on this forum has given you the best advise you can get i hope you follow through. Goodluck

[davo]

First of all, a start capacitor is mostly black in color and made up of a very hard plastic material. It sounds like someone is using improper start componants. (superboosts, kickstarts, Universal start relays, and so on)
Start caps fail usually because they are staying in the system too long. Does it look blown up? If they cannot find a OEM start kit, a MARS 64 or STEVECO 90-64 with a 189-227mfd start cap at 330vac will work great.
One more point, Make sure they put the resistor across the start capacitor, as this lowers arching in the start relay which could be the cause of your problem.

Have the contractor verify the proper componants, (or better yet, another contractor).

If the capacitor is silver, it is a run capacitor.
Most Carrier heat pumps in that time frame used 440vac rated capacitors. If the contractor is using a 370 vac rated capacitor, and the system calls for a 440 vac cap it will fail regularly.
Ther is a lot more to quality service than just parts replacement.

[citywide service]

Drop me an email (it's in my profile) and I will give you the specs on my personal system which gives me a minimum Seer rating of 14.

I live in MO. where we have had too many days over the 100 degree mark and humidity that was stifeling. Through all this my system has kept my house at 75 indoor, cycled as you would expect and dropped my utility bill by $50.00 per month over last year (that figure is off the top of my head, it could be a bit less but not much I can tell you!).

So if your interested, drop me a line and I will send it out.


CW.

[rac43]

Originally posted by davo
First of all, a start capacitor is mostly black in color and made up of a very hard plastic material. It sounds like someone is using improper start componants. (superboosts, kickstarts, Universal start relays, and so on)
Start caps fail usually because they are staying in the system too long. Does it look blown up? If they cannot find a OEM start kit, a MARS 64 or STEVECO 90-64 with a 189-227mfd start cap at 330vac will work great.
One more point, Make sure they put the resistor across the start capacitor, as this lowers arching in the start relay which could be the cause of your problem.

Have the contractor verify the proper componants, (or better yet, another contractor).

If the capacitor is silver, it is a run capacitor.
Most Carrier heat pumps in that time frame used 440vac rated capacitors. If the contractor is using a 370 vac rated capacitor, and the system calls for a 440 vac cap it will fail regularly.
Ther is a lot more to quality service than just parts replacement.

Hi Davo, thanks and this Cap must be the run capacitor, called a 5/55 by tech and rated at 440 volts. What occurs is every 6-8 month during really hot weather, the pump stops and just makes a buzzing noise. I take the side cover off and the big silver Cap, which is strapped to the side of the frame by the way, looks like a balloon on top, very swollen and puffed up. So hot you can not touch it. Last time this occurred, last week, when the tech came out and replaced the capacitor, compressor would not come on. He said looked like it had overheated and tripped internal breaker. We took cover off and ran cool water over compressor for 5 min, then restarted and it came on fine, still working great. I'm trying to describe all of this using best terminology I can as a A/C dumb as-.
By the way, when I go to the Trane site and take the test about what system I need, it comes up with the XR19i. Crap, I'm not a millionaire. Stats: 19 windows, 1660sf, North Texas. This 12 seer? Carrier and air handler keep my house cool. Runs about 15 hours a day now in avg 92, 24 hour temp, therm set to 80 day, 79 night.
It''s just that this system is getting 10 years old now and I need to try saving more on my electric bill. I'm afraid this Carrier is not much longer in this world/. It almost completely melted the insulated cover over the compressor

[Edited by rac43 on 08-20-2006 at 10:14 AM]