R410-A flaring

[Push It]

I checked through some threads on the search but did not really find the answer.
I had a class not to long ago and they said that the old flaring tools will not work. The flares will leak. The new flaring blocks flare at a 45* angle. Does anyone know what the old angle was? And can you use the new 45* angle for other refrigerants. It makes no sense since you do not pick up different flare nuts for different refrigerants. From other threads I am getting the impression you need to put more pipe through the flare block to fit on the face correctly. Also Grainger sells a Rigid that does single lap and double lap. Does anyone know what this means? Rigid P#345DL/150/33927. Grainger P# 4A518

Thanks guys

[Reeferman]

You have either 37 or 45 degree flares. I am assuming that what they mean by single or double lap is a single or double lipped flare. With the higher pressure of 410 a single flare would probably not be strong enough. Brake lines use a double flare due to the pressures. Just google double flare and there are lots to look at.

[marvin]

i may be wrong but ive never had any problems with a std. 45
flare on 410. i have both 37 & 45 but only use the 37 on hydraulic
flares which usually use an inverted flare nut.

[boilerman856]

I checked through some threads on the search but did not really find the answer.
I had a class not to long ago and they said that the old flaring tools will not work. The flares will leak. The new flaring blocks flare at a 45* angle. Does anyone know what the old angle was? And can you use the new 45* angle for other refrigerants. It makes no sense since you do not pick up different flare nuts for different refrigerants. From other threads I am getting the impression you need to put more pipe through the flare block to fit on the face correctly. Also Grainger sells a Rigid that does single lap and double lap. Does anyone know what this means? Rigid P#345DL/150/33927. Grainger P# 4A518

Thanks guys
You must have taken an LG class. They have been spewing this for years. The flaring tool you already have is probably 45*. Never seen 37* I think it is for hydraulics. The only difference with 410 is the width of the flair shoulder needs to be large enough. I think yellow jacket has a tool with a gauge for the hieght of the pipe to make sure. I fell for the whole "different" flair so many times. I also put a little dab of blue loctite so those flairs don't loosen with the vibration.




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[Tom R]

Hydraulic fittings are 37° if you try to flare steel tubing to 45° most of the time it would split on you, hence the shallower flare angle.

[meplumber]

You must have taken an LG class. They have been spewing this for years. The flaring tool you already have is probably 45*. Never seen 37* I think it is for hydraulics. The only difference with 410 is the width of the flair shoulder needs to be large enough. I think yellow jacket has a tool with a gauge for the hieght of the pipe to make sure. I fell for the whole "different" flair so many times. I also put a little dab of blue loctite so those flairs don't loosen with the vibration.




Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk 2

Ditto on Boilerman's comments. I have been using a 20+ year old flaring tool on mini-splits since they came out. I haven't had a leak yet that wasn't self inflicted. LG was the ones spewing this garbage at their training and in their literature. Your fine.

[Push It]

It was a Diakin class. And I bought the YJ 60278 today more due to needing something asap for the job. It is the self height model. It took alot of practice tries to start getting the hang of it. Very little pressure needed while turning. I actually ended up just counting the turns for the flare. Pressure testing tonight. I made 4 flares I'll write tomorrow if everything held. Thanks everyone.

[TriplePoint]

410 flares 45° and wider. Hang your end out a little longer to match it up with fitting.

JASON sent this from his DUMB-PHONE

[Joehvac25]

X2 for brake lines, ISO (double flare) brakes are 1000 psi or more if I remember right? Don't quote that it's been years since I was a certified brake tech.

[Push It]

Well she held 300# over night. Thanks for your help guys.

[timetable15]

yellow jackets tool is designed for the 410a flare.Samsung ductless instructions talk about the difference of the flare.The flaring tool is worth every dollar it has multiple sizes and set the depth for you its almost too easy.Yellow Jacket 60278 Deluxe Deluxe 45° Flaring Tool check it out

[mark beiser]

The newer flaring tools have a different type of cone that makes a MUCH nicer flare, with even wall thickness, and a nicely burnished sealing surface.

Instead of just a solid cone that wedges its way into the pipe to stretch the flare out, they have lobes on the cone, and usually an eccentric motion, that roles the tubing out into shape.

[tech45]

" Burnishing " I believe is the correct term. The " Red Handled Ritchie " has always done that ( Rotoflare as it was called ). The Blue handle tool turns a wider face for sure ( 410-A ) .

Question : Do fuel oil guys have to " seek out " older tools for flaring ?

[cold coffee]

Rule of thumb: 45 degree flares are for oil and minisplits, 37 degree are automotive. The yj tool will work for anything you have to do.

[oil lp man]

I use a single flare 45 degree angle block flaring tool for oil. It has lasted me 13 years so far. It is a Ridgid ratcheting type.
I bought a 45 degree angle Rothenbeger for double flares in case I run into replacing a suction line filters on AC where I might get a burnout. I tested it and took a little bit to get good at making the flare but haven't used it in the field yet.

[tostaos]

As mentioned in other posts, you don't need a new flaring tool, but it is nice to have. It's so much easier and fool proof. I use the FT800FN CPS R-410A Clutch Type Concentric Flaring Tool http://www.centurytool.net/R_410A_Clutch_Type_Concentric_Flaring_Tool_with_Ra _p/cpsft800fn.htm

[hvacbear]

Saw flared fittings hold 3000 PSI plus in Aircraft I think we are safe.

[71CHOPS]

gotta go through the steps to get a good flare. ALWAYS ream the tube before you flare...if not, you get a lip that will leak. it just takes some practice to get a nice wide, yet even flare.

also, put a little oil on the back of the flare before tightening.....