the_emi_guy
07-04-2012, 03:36 PM
Greetings folks,
My 25 year old 3 ton AC is dead. Decided to have 15 year old gas furnace replaced while I am at it. Furnace is on floor in basement with 20x12 sheet metal return duct.
Have several quotes.
My biggest concern is filter size.
All quotes so far except one are just copying the same 16x25 filter size from original system. Furnace was replaced 15 years ago by previous owner (Bryant Plus 90). It runs 1570cfm through 16x25 filter that just slid over 20x12 duct inside of unit. Thus airflow through filter was restricted to 1.67 square feet. This is a velocity through filter of 1570/240 = 940fpm. Every time I have replaced this filter in last 10 years, it has been bent out of shape by force of the air flow.
From what I am learning online, for 3 ton I need 1200cfm, and for 1200cfm I need 600 square inches of filter area. This would be a 20x30 or 25x25 filter.
This seems like a big filter. Should I insist that contractor put in 20x30 filter? If so, how would this work. 30 inches is bigger than the depth of the furnace. Is there a way to angle the filter?
One contractor mentioned that he would do something to increase filter size, but he also wanted to upsize me to 4 ton. I am reluctant to do this without some formal manual J calculation.
My second concern is with the cfm rating of air handler. So far all quotes have air handler flow rate well above the 3ton 1200fpm. One contractor quoted a Bryant furnace with a 1950cfm rate while cooling (59sc2A100S21-14). Is this a concern, either for operation of AC or capacity of ducts and filter? Do these "variable speed" furnaces change speed in AC mode to maintain proper rate?
A third question. One contractor recommended that I put in a low efficiency "old style" furnace since I have a 6" flue right there from original furnace when home was new (15 years ago water heater was orphaned when high efficiency unit was installed). He said it would be more reliable and repairs would be less expensive.
I am ok with the efficiency hit if the unit will be more reliable (calculated it would cost me $60/year). Does he have a valid point?
Thanks
My 25 year old 3 ton AC is dead. Decided to have 15 year old gas furnace replaced while I am at it. Furnace is on floor in basement with 20x12 sheet metal return duct.
Have several quotes.
My biggest concern is filter size.
All quotes so far except one are just copying the same 16x25 filter size from original system. Furnace was replaced 15 years ago by previous owner (Bryant Plus 90). It runs 1570cfm through 16x25 filter that just slid over 20x12 duct inside of unit. Thus airflow through filter was restricted to 1.67 square feet. This is a velocity through filter of 1570/240 = 940fpm. Every time I have replaced this filter in last 10 years, it has been bent out of shape by force of the air flow.
From what I am learning online, for 3 ton I need 1200cfm, and for 1200cfm I need 600 square inches of filter area. This would be a 20x30 or 25x25 filter.
This seems like a big filter. Should I insist that contractor put in 20x30 filter? If so, how would this work. 30 inches is bigger than the depth of the furnace. Is there a way to angle the filter?
One contractor mentioned that he would do something to increase filter size, but he also wanted to upsize me to 4 ton. I am reluctant to do this without some formal manual J calculation.
My second concern is with the cfm rating of air handler. So far all quotes have air handler flow rate well above the 3ton 1200fpm. One contractor quoted a Bryant furnace with a 1950cfm rate while cooling (59sc2A100S21-14). Is this a concern, either for operation of AC or capacity of ducts and filter? Do these "variable speed" furnaces change speed in AC mode to maintain proper rate?
A third question. One contractor recommended that I put in a low efficiency "old style" furnace since I have a 6" flue right there from original furnace when home was new (15 years ago water heater was orphaned when high efficiency unit was installed). He said it would be more reliable and repairs would be less expensive.
I am ok with the efficiency hit if the unit will be more reliable (calculated it would cost me $60/year). Does he have a valid point?
Thanks