View Full Version : Boiler/High Velocity vs trad. .ductwork force air heat and CA?
07-11-2006, 03:57 PM
Let me try to explain this better. I have a gas boiler and metal heaters at the baseboards of the house. Boiler is 34 yrs old... Do I:
A: Go with central air ductwork and forced air heat in one system (furnace, AC Unit, complressor)
B: buy new boiler and keep basboard heat and for AC put in a Spacepak High Velocity
C. Consider another option
07-11-2006, 03:59 PM
Why did you double post??????
07-11-2006, 04:00 PM
sorry I think my initial message was unclear with all of the typos and it seemed to generate confusion and I really need some answers on this
07-12-2006, 11:18 AM
I need to make a decision tonight. Just trying to figure out what to do. Do I buy a new boiler for my existing baseboards and get central air with full ductwork OR do I combine the new central air with FA heatand a Furnace for one system? I assume buying a new boiler is the more expensive option. Does that advantages of boiler heat warrant the extra 3 grand or so? Also thre is an aesthetic advantage to taking off the baseboard radiators if I got FA heat.
07-12-2006, 12:29 PM
A non professional opinion:
Depending on the climate you live in, you may want to think twice about getting rid of your radiant heat system. I live in central Canada and feel that there are efficiencies with radiant heat that forced air can't match. In addition, it is a quieter system than forced air.
In my ranch style home, I opted to keep the radiant heat system (I also need a new boiler) and am adding a low velocity system in the attic space. I feel I will now have the best of both worlds. In the winter, I have quiet heat that radiates from the floor upwards. In the summer I will have cold air dropping from the ceiling to cool the entire area.
This setup costs more, but there are savings with maintaing a radiant heat system. The HVAC contractor I am using will be installing a high efficiency furnace in the fall with an outside air temp sensor to allow the appropriate water temperature in the boil, thereby avoiding overheating the house on mild days and allow for maximum temperature automatically when it is really cold outside.
PS With my new AC system , I was concerned about moisture build up in the AC vent system in the winter (attic installation) months. The contractor is installing small heaters "in line" which will read the air temperature in the house and add just enough heat to keep the ductwork (insulated, of course) the same temperature as the room air (i.e. I will not be adding heat to the rooms with this system, just warming the ducks to room temperature). THe ecm motors will turn at a slow rate to keep the warm air circulating. This will help avoid any moisture build up due to condensation in the ductwork during the cold winter months.
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