View Full Version : Trouble removing filter
07-07-2006, 01:24 PM
My attic unit is a PAYNE. It was mounted inside a drip-pan, since it is in my attic. The unit was mounted too deeply into the pan so I can't get the filter out. what can be moved, and what shouldn't be moved while I readjust the height of the unit in the pan?
Here is a picture for review.
Here is a picture of the existing sump-pump.
Do you think the Initial installation looks a little rough?
Also, the instructions recommend using a second pvc drain pipe(if the unit is above a living space, which this one is). I know where it comes out of the unit, but where would that drain go? Would it go to a second 'sump-pump' (I have one installed already) or is there something else that must be done?
Thanks for the help.
07-07-2006, 03:31 PM
A PVC union would allow you to take that pump out whenever you want.
The safety drain pan doesn't need a condensate pump. What it needs is a water alarm wired such that the AC won't function if there is water in the secondary pan. It's in the attic right? You want to know about the failure (pump, clog, fuse etc) before it drips on your ceiling. You wouldn't want the primary and secondary pump to fail and not know about it. Would you? Turning off the AC, thus stopping the AC from creating water will keep it from leaking all over your ceiling. The AC not working will cause you to investigate. The water alarm nneds to be reliable as well. Placement and pitch of the secondary pan would contribute.
You should have been changing your filters regularly and idealy you should go back to the contractor to be able to change the filter. It doesn't look like an easy fix since the unit is resting on the pan.
07-07-2006, 03:42 PM
So the drain pan is actually the second level of safety? It already has an A/C shut-off switch that does work. According to the pamphlet attached to the Payne unit, I should run a second pvc tube to 'somewhere'. do I need to do this at all if I already have the pan? And, the unit 'is' in the attic.
As for the filter, I don't have access to the contractor that installed the unit. I bought this house recently not knowing that they would have installed it in such a poor fashion. Do you have any other ideas as to how to realign something so I will be able to get to that filter/
07-07-2006, 06:02 PM
Nope, the pump was needed because the condensate could not be gravity fed. Put some water in the pan and see if the unit shuts off. The sensor may have to be thoroughly dried for it to work again so pick a cool day.
The material you need is framing channel or framing strut. A name brand is UNISTRUT. Comes painted, unpainted and galvanized. The system is like a very heavy duty Erector set. You need to mount the unit on top of this kind of support hung just like your wooden beams are, preferably with some vibration isolating pads between the support and the unit. You can then have your pan mounted to your wooden support that's held further out or design the support for the pan so the wooden planks can be removed altogether. You may also have to pay attention as to where the manufacturer will allow supports and the loads that they can support. If you look in any commercial building ceiling, the stuff is everywhere.
Rigging is beyond what I'd feel comfortable with or would even try to explain.
Bottom line: Have a few people come out and give you an estimate to clean this mess up.
It's not likely something that you should be attempting.
I'd bet that there is considerable vibration when the unit is on.
So, we've covered the basis for an auxillary drain pain, the condensate pump and a method of fixing your problem with the suggession of leaving it to the pros. Step by step instructions not allowed.
07-07-2006, 06:22 PM
The way we do it up here is to pipe that secondary drain out into the soffit and elbow down over a window or door. ( not onto it) so if your secondary pan gets water and you see a drip out your window, you will have air, just means it's time to clean the main drain.
07-07-2006, 06:41 PM
since you just bought the place, it would be a good idea to have the system checked over for proper operation and installation anyway.
looks pretty close to coming out, perhaps a small notch in the pan could work. but these pans can be quite brittle and crack easily. beware.
07-07-2006, 07:12 PM
I suppose your suggesting investing in a Dremel tool?
I put it off for so long, but until recently, one has become difficult to borrow. The little router base is really cool.
07-07-2006, 09:54 PM
Here is how an AC should be mounted in the "Hall of Pride" section: http://www.hvac-talk.com/vbb/showthread.php?threadid=109384
and here is a nice pic of a nicely placed overflow pan:
[Edited by keepitsimplestupid on 07-07-2006 at 10:07 PM]
07-07-2006, 10:15 PM
Payne is a brand of Carrier, try going to carriers website and typing in your zip code to find a dealer near you.
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