When adding a TXV valve

[jrc2905]

When adding a TXV valve to an existing A-coil, and advice on how to and where the equalizer line should be connected.

[hvac1000]

Suction line. If all else fails follow the directions that came in the box. Good luck.

[jrc2905]

I was hoping for a little more advice than what line it goes on. Like the location of the equalizer line (on the suction line) and do you use a fitting or drill a hole and braze it on.

[hvac1000]

Dear sir. I am not about to give you a step by step blow by blow description of how to install a expansion valve. It will take far to much of my valuable time. I am sure you do not have the proper recovery equiptment and all the proper tools to complete the instillation. Further more I suggest you contact a dealer in your area to take on this task. Everyone on this board trys to be nice but sometimes the information that is asked for can be found on the net. Try http://www.sporlan.com. Anything that has to do with TX valves is located there. That link may not work. Try to google sporlan instead.

[jrc2905]

First I do have a call into the Sporlan tech line but the holiday is a delay.
I do have all the latest equipment, and more that most HVAC techs have. I am a tech I think.?(who cares)
I am sorry I must have entered the wrong place, I thought this was where you ask tech questions about residential HVAC. Let me go back out and look at the sign over the door

[corny]

Residential section is where the real slackjaws hang out just waiting to tear into anyone who appears to be a homeowner or someone having difficulty with an hvac problem.

Drill a hole in the line....you might want to drill the hole with the copper disconnected from the coil so you can get the shavings out....cause shavings=bad...or just use a scratch awl and punch a hole thru.....

Put the equalizer line in the suction line downstream from the bulb location...

Sporlan might have some information on their website about the proper way to install the valve...Im sure they have the installation instructions for their products...or google "installing txv" etc......

[jrc2905]

Thanks I figured that when I have the suction line cut to install the valve I would use my one-gallon wet vac and attach it to the suction line when drilling the hole for the equalizer line. That should suck out any shavings. I was wondering if there is maybe a better way, maybe a special fitting?

[hvac1000]

You have a computer use it. Go to the sporlan site and it will tell you all. You do not need Sporlan tech service for the answers to your questions.


Go here for all the answers. It is a dl file and has all your info.

http://www.sporlan.com/10-11.pdf

[mdman]

Slackjaw is right, this place is full of self-righteous "professional members" tooting their horn.

You could also put the system under light N2 charge and drill into it to blow the drill cuttings out. Obviously eye cover is a must here. If your using a saddle valve don't install the Schrader valve if the flared line doesn't have a valve depressor. Seen that! I saved a 5T Lennox from it's previous "repair" like that.

If this it a retrofit from fixed metering, make sure your add an appropriate hard start. If this is a heat pump make sure the TXV is a bi-flow or bypass it externally with a mag-na-check.

jrc2905, if you need more details, pictures, or someone to teach you this, I only charge $50/Hr.

[jrc2905]

I went to the Sprolan site; nowhere do they talk about how to attach the equalizer line.
Kind of like the people who sell Pex tubing for hydronic baseboard heating, no where do they talk about how to support the tubing in an install, you have to develop your own design.
With the advent of 13 Seer systems, how to properly install a txv valve on a existing piston metered coils is a concern for me. The companies I sub for want the txv installed on what they call compatible coils to save money on condenser replacements. I should post here asking what is a compatible coil. I was told anything older then 1995 is not a compatable coil. (Before anyone starts screaming, remember there is no official EPA or ARI policy regarding the use of 13 seer units on non 13 seer coils, that I know of, if there was they would enforce it.)

Mdman, $50 an hour, that’s a deal, out here the lowest rate is $75 an hour.

[hvac1000]

Check there page 3 look at figure drawing number 6 and read the description. Sorry about being a **** head but I had one of those brother in law days. The idiot thought I should drive 150 miles round trip to fix his A/C. LOL I have been retired since 1998 and only do study's/testing on refer in the lab at the university. Since I would not drive there he started asking me what could be wrong. He is a state trooper and know nothing about anything but guns and law.

I have always found the Sporlan site to contain all the information I need except for some special Ammonia valves I had to have custom built years ago. DL that complete file to your computer. I just went up and checked and it is complete.

[mdman]

And here on Sporlan Bulletin 10-9

http://img224.imageshack.us/img224/4606/sporlan5mx.jpg

[stonefly]

dont "drill" hole. use a file to crosshatch an "X" on the suction line, deep but not all the way through. then work an awl through at the crossing where the copper is thin.wiggle the awl until the hole is big enough for the eq. tube or schrader port.

[hvac1000]

That is a great idea but I have one of those recovery tools and just clamp it down to punch the hole. The awl idea will also work great just takes a little more time.

[mdman]

Originally posted by hvac1000
That is a great idea but I have one of those recovery tools and just clamp it down to punch the hole. The awl idea will also work great just takes a little more time.

This guy, cuz that what I want to start using for this trick. How well does this work for you?
http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/2116/recoverypliers4tb.jpg

[hvac1000]

They work great to punch holes and to recover small refrigerators/window a/c

[jrc2905]

The Sporlan rep called me back today. He said there is only one maker of coils who offer a kit for installing a TXV on an older coil and you need to make flares to use it. He seemed to favor drilling a hole for the equalizer line as long as you get the filings out and suggested using a suction filter to catch any that may get into the system. Seems we are on our own to decide which is the beat way to do it.

[mdman]

Originally posted by stonefly
dont "drill" hole. use a file to crosshatch an "X" on the suction line, deep but not all the way through. then work an awl through at the crossing where the copper is thin.wiggle the awl until the hole is big enough for the eq. tube or schrader port.


I do like your idea. I'll try that.
Man, I learn all this tricks on this site.

[mdman]

Originally posted by jrc2905
The Sporlan rep called me back today. He said there is only one maker of coils who offer a kit for installing a TXV on an older coil and you need to make flares to use it. He seemed to favor drilling a hole for the equalizer line as long as you get the filings out and suggested using a suction filter to catch any that may get into the system. Seems we are on our own to decide which is the beat way to do it.

http://img102.imageshack.us/img102/5641/txv3qv.jpg


Spolan makes the valves, very good ones, then I decide the application , then test out the system by cycling it though a range of heat loading and head pressures by doing creative things with airflow.

The OEM's do not have a monopoly on component application, even if they made it, and regardless of what they approve for purposes of warranty the concepts of refrigeration cycle apply always. You do not need a "kit", you need to understand TXVs, power element charging characteristics, bulb placement, operating pressures / sat temps, when to use an external eq, when to use an MOP, when to use a bi-flow, how to adjust SH, how to solve hunting cycle,...

BTW, something wrong with your flaring skills too.

Please do some homework (maybe a lot) before you tell others what you can't do because a Sporlan Rep doesn't have a cross ref and the OEM doesn't make it that way.

If you want to by the parts and watch me do some hat trick brazing, I'll change that coil to an EEV. Actually my brazing is nothing to brag about for sure.

Like Fox Molder says...
http://img102.imageshack.us/img102/8004/thetruthisoutthere5bm.jpg

[hvacker]

I never bother drilling a hole I just burn one with my torch. Being careful the copper will wall up around the hole and make brezing eazy.

Try it you'll like it

[N3SJH]

Don't bother, the customer will never know the difference.

[mdman]

Originally posted by N3SJH
Don't bother, the customer will never know the difference.

Turn in your gauge set, your a disgrace to the cause.

[jrc2905]

Please ignore my post about cutting the suction line, it makes no sense since I am not cutting the suction line. It was late on a holiday and had a few. I do like the idea of using nitrogen to blow out the cuttings since I will be using it to pressure test the new connections to the 13 seer condenser.

[mdman]

I want to try out stonefly's method. I haven't done that before but I'm open minded to abandon good ideas for better ones if that's the case.

<snip>
"crosshatch an "X" on the suction line, deep but not all the way through. then work an awl through at the crossing where the copper is thin.wiggle the awl until the hole is big enough for the eq. tube or Schrader port."
</snip>