How to determine if it is time to replace your HVAC

[bjsbuds]

I have spent much time today reading the various threads in this forum trying to gain knowledge on what I can do to lower my energy costs.

Existing HVAC system:
Furnace - Janitol / Goodman, Model - GSU100-4, Serial No. 9604824764, mfg. 1996 (interesting since the house was built in 1998)
A/C - Janitol / Goodman, Model - CR491B, Serial No. 9810435680, mfg. 1998

Two other houses built by the same builder, that were built after my house, have had furnace failures and have had to replace their HVAC. I remember that when I met the HVAC installer, he said he was new and mine was his first HVAC install. Swell, I thought.

My monthly propane & electric bills averaged $462 each in 2011 & $505 each in 2010. I have compared my utility bills with my next door neighbor's, whose house is also a single story with identical square footage. Their bills are almost half of mine. The only difference is my house has 14' ceilings in the living & dining room, and I have an in-ground pool pump. We both have a finished basement. HVAC systems are from different manufacturers.

I am one of those 'love statistics' people, so I have recorded information from all utility bills back to the year the house was built in 1998. I also have a spreadsheet of all readings taken during semi-annual HVAC maintenance. Pretty interesting that the Name Plate Amps on the Furnace Fan Motor was recorded anywhere from 6.8 amps to 12.0 amps, only consistant three times at 10.0 amps. The A/C Compressor Name Plate Amps was recorded every year at 20.0 amps. Anyway, my point in all of this is that if someone can point me to the most important readings to review, I can likely do so.

Four years after the house was built, I was informed that while I have a 2-stage furnace, it was not hooked up for the 2nd stage to run. I needed a different thermostat and the wiring changed in the furnace.

At furnace age year 8 I had to have the blower motor and wheel replaced.

In 2010, the A/C failed and I had a capacitor replaced and was told by the repair guy that the A/C unit would only last one week. I had another company come out and take a look, and the guy said yes it could fail next week, or run for another few years. It is still running.

I found a thread that had four PDF files attached with info on where to begin and what to look for in a HVAC system and installer, but the thread was closed so I couldn't open the files.

Here's what I have done so far:
- Received a quote for a replacement HVAC system by Trane (by company that has been doing my HVAC maintenance).
- Received a quote for an A/C replacement by Westinghouse (by company that gave second opinion on A/C).
- Received a quote for a Geothermal System by WaterFurnace (by company that installed same system for another neighbor last year).
- Had insulation installer out and was told I have plenty of insulation.
- Had an Energy Audit - will find out results next week.

I keep reading that the most important thing in replacing your HVAC system is the installer. How does the homeowner know they are selecting a qualified installer, when the person that comes out to the house is a salesman?

I really appreciate any suggestions.

[skippedover]

Are these what you seek?

[bjsbuds]

Thank you; however, I cannot open the attachments, as it says 'you do not have permission to access this page.'

[dandyme]

I think you have to have 6 post in order to view pdf's

[shavedneon]

Add your email address to your profile, someone could send them to you.:cheers:

[catmanacman]

Geo thermal is best i think although very expensive to install , if you dont do geo thermal you should go with a dual fuel heat pump with a 95% furnace then run your heat pump down to about 25 to 30 degrees the switch to furnace . Your contractor shoild be able to give you a breakdown using you local electric rate as whats best

[udarrell]

Pretty interesting that the Name Plate Amps on the Furnace Fan Motor was recorded anywhere from 6.8 amps to 12.0 amps, only consistent three times at 10.0 amps. The A/C Compressor Name Plate Amps was recorded every year at 20.0 amps.
On the fan amp variations, if the filter was loaded too much the resistance causes the blower wheel to unload & therefor the blower amps drop. When a new clean filter is installed the resistance is a lot less & therefore the blower wheel is moving more CFM & uses more amps & HP.

Appears you have a 4-Ton A/C therefore the blower needs to move 1600-cfm during the cooling season.

The system is only 12-years old & I'd work on reducing the heat-loss heat-gain of your home so which will save on both heat & cooling costs.

The total runtime in your climate area is not that much, therefore if the install & setup is right, it should last a number of years yet; if operating costs seem too high, after home retrofitting, you might want to go for new equipment.

Then when you have to replace the system you should be able to down size equipment which will help make the duct system & airflow more efficient.