Not able to seal systems with POE Oils

[pmpaaron]

Ive been working with a ton of environmental test chambers that get down to -20C and use POE oils and R404. In every case no matter what brand equipment there are leaks developing on the oil cooler loop or anywhere there are threaded fittings. I have started to suspect the POE oil. I know that threaded nor flared fittings belong on any refrige system but in some cases there is no choice (brass plugs, oil filters,etc..). I am wondering if there is a particlular sealent anyone has been using and has been succesful with? I use primarly refrigeration Leak Lock. And has worked with certain parts of systems that dont have alot of oil saturation. But on oil cooler loops i cannot get the system to stay completly sealed. Any other high quality sealants out there?

[Gibbo]

We use Loctite 577 here in the UK, If your Leak Lock is in blue coloured tubes i have used it as well but i prefer Loctite 577 but you need to ensure the connections are dry and clean to start with.
Loctite 577 has a fairly quick seal on low pressure but up to 24 hours for high pressure side or at least overnight.

[Dallas Duster]

We use Loctite 577 here in the UK, If your Leak Lock is in blue coloured tubes i have used it as well but i prefer Loctite 577 but you need to ensure the connections are dry and clean to start with.
Loctite 577 has a fairly quick seal on low pressure but up to 24 hours for high pressure side or at least overnight.

Here n the states I use 567 it has PST in it.

[pmpaaron]

Thanks for the info. Only thing I don't like about loctite 577 is its damn near perminate. It will be my last resort. Thanks again

[second opinion]

try Liqui Vac by Airesco

[ascj]

Ive been working with a ton of environmental test chambers that get down to -20C and use POE oils and R404. In every case no matter what brand equipment there are leaks developing on the oil cooler loop or anywhere there are threaded fittings. I have started to suspect the POE oil. I know that threaded nor flared fittings belong on any refrige system but in some cases there is no choice (brass plugs, oil filters,etc..). I am wondering if there is a particlular sealent anyone has been using and has been succesful with? I use primarly refrigeration Leak Lock. And has worked with certain parts of systems that dont have alot of oil saturation. But on oil cooler loops i cannot get the system to stay completly sealed. Any other high quality sealants out there?

I have been working on environmental chamber that run -80c, 507, and POE. Forget about the pipe dopes. Throw some Blue Monster tape on the joints. Temperature range is -268C to 260C. It's a PTFE, so good for esters. It's holding up on a running vacuum. And it isn't a bear to get back apart.

Give it a try.

[mikep]

Pipe fittings leak. Especially galvanized pipe.

[just_opinion]

I have been working on environmental chamber that run -80c, 507, and POE. Forget about the pipe dopes. Throw some Blue Monster tape on the joints. Temperature range is -268C to 260C. It's a PTFE, so good for esters. It's holding up on a running vacuum. And it isn't a bear to get back apart.

Give it a try.

Amen to that.

Not everything can be fixed with locktite or whatever.

Always read the MSDS of the product so we can use it correctly and safely.

Again, Amen

[Gibbo]

I think you will find that PTFE tape exposed to refrigerant blends and polyester oil will start to leak eventually hence the loctite or other suitable thread sealant.

[trouble time]

I use a product called "Nyloc" Works very well with poe oils.

[second opinion]

I use a product called "Nyloc" Works very well with poe oils.

"Nylog" is also a great product designed for synthetic oils.

[fitzyfitta]

The Nylog is good stuff.

[wicked251]

I use blue monster tape and Nylog, make sure you have the proper type of Nylog. I wont use leak lock, it always leaks after it hardens.

[western]

Used nylog about 3 years ago to seal a crankcase bolt on a military type a/c unit to cool commercial airlines. Haven't leaked yet. But also used it for a suction transducer at a supermarket and it leaked. So i'm not convinced yet. Really don't like blue leak lock especially when someone puts it on flare nuts but I think it's good for now.

[stanbyyourword]

whatever happened to rectorseal?

[second opinion]

whatever happened to rectorseal?

I do not believe they make a thread sealant product for refrigeration only plumbing.

[jammzzville]

Really don't like blue leak lock especially when someone puts it on flare nuts but I think it's good for now.

I absolutely can not stand it when I find flare nut threads that have been sealed/doped. If you have a leaky flare fitting and you can't stop the leak, the tube needs to be re-flared. If you don't have enough slack to make a new flare, cut the tube back a few inches and braze or sliver solder in a new piece of tube of the proper length that you have already flared. I've seen it way too many times.

I guess, blue leak lock has it's places. Anyway, pertaining to the topic of this thread, we have had several headaches involving POE oils. All of our R22/Mineral systems are being retrofitted to 407C/POE. Something like 150 water cooled condensing units ranging from 10 ton to 125 ton. I personally am not too thrilled about ditching R22/Mineral.

Luckily we had only completed a few handfuls of condensing unit before we realized just how bad these leaks were becoming. Pressure tested everything, held pressure for 24 hours. Evacuated some systems for 96 hours and held vacuum for another 24 hours. Charge system and start up. 4 days later: 50 lbs of charge GONE. The packings of every isolation valve had to be replaced, we even had to make some additional packings out of Teflon rope to stop some leaks in certain valves. Never a problem with mineral, damn POE. I have found refrigeration loctite and teflon rope to be a cure, at least for our POE problems.

[monkeyspanners]

Give TruBlu by RectorSeal a try, i've been using it for over eight years since it became available here and have yet to find a joint i've sealed with it leaking.
Mostly fusible plugs in recievers and compressor oil fill plugs, pressure switch connections in heads etc. These are steel to steel and brass to steel taper thread type joints.

http://www.rectorseal.com/RectorSeal-Tru-Blu.php

I have heard a lot of good things about the loctite product to but despite having some on the truck i have yet to try it on a working system.

Had nothing but trouble with LeakLock on R404A/ester oil systems, stuff seems to go hard and porous over time.

[trouble time]

I use blue monster tape and Nylog, make sure you have the proper type of Nylog. I wont use leak lock, it always leaks after it hardens.

:ditto:

[r404a]

been through this many times with oil seeping out at threaded joints. 567 and others are great at sealing refrigerant but we all have seen those leaks that seem to drip oil after it held up to pressure test, leak detector etc. i attatched a datd sheet on staybond chemicals and in this case i recommend staybond 569. i believe loctite has a similar product called 569 as well. this is a hydraulic sealent and it does set up hard but has been a great product for me in the instances that you mention here

[Gear-Drive Guru]

I use Loctite 515 on al threads and o-ring used with POE oils. The secret is how to apply the product. Ensure threads are free of all loose materials, is oil free and threads are in good condition. Do not get carried away when applying this product. Apply a small amount to the male thread only. Prevent an excess entering the system. Do not apply accelerators to the parts for fast drying times. This product will dry when heat is applied such as when the fittings are screwed together. Leave 12 hours before pressure testing or evacuating. Separating this product is an effort but use acetone to remove product from fittings. You will not be disappointed.

[EZE2489]

Don't use the Lock-Tite. Horrible idea. Use the Liqui-Vac by Airesco. Works like a charm and you won't have to kill yourself if you ever have to take that nut back off!